The Brandywine Valley is a picturesque region known for extraordinary contributions to America’s cultural heritage. Driving through the countryside lined with dazzling estates, you’ll pass legendary Longwood Gardens and Winterthur, known for its premier collection of American furniture and decor. Members of the aristocratic du Pont family founded both of these landmarks, while a third-generation du Pont built the Versailles-like Nemours Mansion. Another must-see is Brandywine River Museum of Art, where the Wyeth family painted notable works of American art.
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On Valentine’s Day 22 years ago, my husband got down on his knee at the Fairville Inn and asked me to marry him. Brandywine Valley, with its rolling countryside and magnificent real estate, was the ideal backdrop for any romantic to pop the question, and May 2017 was the first time we’d been back since the proposal. This time, our two daughters were tagging along, trying not to roll their eyes when we passed the lovely inn. “That’s it!” I exclaimed, and Eric turned the car around. We took a few pictures, but there was so much to do, we quickly resumed our tour.
Located on the border of Pennsylvania and Delaware, in what is now a tony suburb of Wilmington, Delaware, America’s version of royalty, the du Ponts, put down their roots and grew a dynasty. The French émigrés built Brandywine Valley into a community for the superrich, which now serves as a unique destination with attractions that fans of art, architecture and gardening will love. Brandywine Valley’s rich history begins with the Lenape Indians and Swedish, Finnish and Dutch settlers who acquired their land through treaties in the 17th century. The Brandywine River became the center of America’s paper mill industry in 1770s, providing Benjamin Franklin with supplies to print currency and newspapers.
In 1800, the du Pont family moved to the United States to escape the political turmoil of the French Revolution. The family quickly recognized several business opportunities in America and began dealing in land speculation, dry goods and black powder manufacturing. Patriarch Eleuthere Irenee du Pont (E.I.) learned to make black powder in France and saw there was market for this commodity in his new home. He built a factory on the Brandywine River near Wilmington in 1802. His company, later known as the DuPont Company, came to prominence selling black powder to the mining and construction industries, providing nearly 50 percent of all the gunpowder used by the Union troops during the Civil War.
To learn the beginnings of this storied clan, start at the Hagley Museum (200 Hagley Creek Road, Wilmington) where the du Ponts first lived. On display are examples of their industriousness. The family was adroit at invention and developed many tools needed by the growing American nation.
Up the road, E.I.’s daughter Evelina built a Greek Revival-style estate and named it Winterthur (5105 Kennett Pike, Wilmington) after her husband’s home in Switzerland. The house passed through the family until Henry Francis du Pont took it over at the turn of the century. Here’s where it gets interesting: “Henry Francis du Pont was born in 1880 and died here in 1969. He lived in Winterthur with his wife, Ruth, and their two children,” explains furniture expert Paula Murphy during our tour of the mansion. “He excelled in three areas: naturalistic gardens, for which he won lots of prizes. The garden looks as if it was grown that way, but cultivation was highly detailed. He was also into breeding of cows, and he amassed the largest collection of American decorative arts in the world.”
Winterthur provides a glimpse into a lifestyle similar to the one shown in PBS drama Downton Abbey. The du Ponts upheld the same formal protocols. As Murphy leads us through Winterthur’s luxurious rooms, she remarks, “This was 12-star living.” Winterthur has 175 rooms, all filled with American-made artifacts, dishware, furniture and furnishings collected by Henry du Pont for the purposes of eventually transforming Winterthur into a museum. The massive collection includes 60 pieces of Martha Washington’s china. When someone questions how much du Pont was worth, Murphy answers, “You can’t put a value on Winterthur. It’s priceless.”
Visitors take a tram past flourishing gardens including the whimsical Enchanted Woods. “We know how many plants du Pont planted because he was a meticulous record-keeper,” explains Duncan Pike, our tram guide. “In 1904, he planted 29,000 bulbs here. In 1905 he planted 31,000 more bulbs, and he hired 50 gardeners to take care of it all.” The roads make twists and turns around ancient trees. “He told the contractors to go around the big trees,” adds Pike. Before you leave, stop in the Visitor Center Garden Café for a healthy lunch, and don’t miss the Winterthur Museum Store filled with Americana gifts and home decor. You may enjoy seeing the Campbell Collection of Soup Tureens.
Down the road is USA Today’s 2016 readers’ choice winner for the best public garden in America, Longwood Gardens (1001 Longwood Road, Kennett Square). In 1907, third-generation scion Pierre S. du Pont laid out his plans for Longwood’s first landscape, the Flower Garden Walk, a serene meander through towering trees and colorful flowerbeds. Between 1916 and 1926, Pierre built the Conservatory, filling it with exotic tropical plants. Today, this sprawling indoor garden has themed rooms where flowers and plants are rotated but always displayed in breathtaking splendor (the Conservatory is lovely in the cooler months but gets a bit sticky in the summer).
A total of $90 million was spent on the Main Fountain Garden renovation, and fountain performances occur during the day and evenings. Christmas at Longwood is a wonderland of decorations, carolers and festivities. Longwood’s 1906 Fine Dining restaurant showcases locally grown mushrooms in a variety of preparations along with other regional specialties. The Café has homemade ice cream, and Longwood’s Beer Garden is a refreshing stop after exploring. Save time for Longwood’s Gift Shop with its treasure of garden-themed goodies.
Alfred I. du Pont, great grandson of E.I. du Pont, founded Nemours Mansion and Gardens (850 Alapocas Drive, Wilmington) in honor of his beloved second wife, Alicia. Nemours is a 77-room 18th-century manor house, a style Alicia admired. Nemours has the largest formal French gardens in North America and contains Marie Antoinette’s actual grandfather clock. Alfred was also an inventor and philanthropist. Upon his death, he ordered the estate to build Nemours Children’s Hospital on the grounds and dedicate it to treating childhood illnesses. Tours of Nemours are self-guided and include the Chauffeur’s Garage with Alfred’s vintage cars.
The Wyeths of Brandywine Valley are another noteworthy family dynasty. Artist N.C. Wyeth bought land along the Brandywine River and built a house and studio for his family. You can tour both at the Brandywine River Museum of Art (1 Hoffmans Mill Road, Chadds Ford) and learn about this acclaimed illustrator of children’s books such as Treasure Island and The Odyssey. Many Wyeth children became artists, too, but youngest son Andrew gained the most fame with his images of the region. Andrew’s son Jamie followed in the family’s footsteps, painting contemporary pieces, including portraits of Andy Warhol. This modern museum contains the family’s artwork. The museum’s Millstone Café features snacks and coffees and overlooks the river.
Downtown Wilmington was our home base while we explored, with several hotels and an Amtrak station in the heart of the city. Wilmington has a quirky combination of modern and historic architecture, and the new Riverfront pays tribute to Harriett Tubman—Wilmington was the final stop on the Underground Railroad to Freedom. From here you can watch the rowers on Christina River or visit Riverfront Market (3 S. Orange St.).
Wilmington’s casual Chelsea Tavern (821 N. Market St.) serves Delaware’s Dogfish Head beers on tap and has an excellent happy hour. For breakfast, Evelyn’s Soul Food (6 E. 15th St.) is a tasty bargain. Find upscale Italian at La Fia (421 N. Market St.), but for pure elegance, sit beneath the golden chandeliers of the Hotel Du Pont’s Green Room (42 W. 11th St.), the AAA Four Diamond restaurant where Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier dined in 1955.
Shoppers will find one-of-a-kind items in the gift shops at Winterthur, Longwood Gardens and Brandywine River Museum, but the quirky QVC Studio Park (1200 Wilson Drive, West Chester) is a distinctive experience altogether. Fans enjoy touring the broadcasting facility and shopping for QVC signature merchandise. Just down the road is Kennett Square, (106 W. State St., Kennett Square) known as the Mushroom Capital of the World; it’s a small town with boutiques and, of course, lots of mushroom-themed items.
If you want to visit multiple attractions, consider the Brandywine Treasure Trail Passport—individuals pay $45, and families of up to five pay $95. But there’s so much to do that you’ll have to prioritize. And while I’m not promising Brandywine Valley will inspire your loved one to propose, I can assure you it’s the perfect place for a satisfying dose of culture, history and beauty.
Where To Stay
Hotel Du Pont
Located 10 blocks from Wilmington’s Riverfront in the heart of the business district, this magnificent historic hotel was built by the du Pont family in 1913. Though designed to celebrate the Gilded Age, the hotel’s 217 guest rooms are shiny and new, furnished in soothing gold tones. The rooms have the feel of a chic apartment with sitting rooms and spa-style bathrooms. The lobby and public areas are decorated with carved woodwork, gilded ceilings, Italian marble and mosaics. Both the hotel and the Green Room restaurant are winners of the AAA Diamond award for their service and luxurious setting. Considered the Pride of Delaware, this icon attracted the rich and famous for decades, including Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Ingrid Bergman, John F. Kennedy, Duke Ellington, Elizabeth Taylor and more recently, Whoopie Goldberg, Reese Witherspoon and Warren Buffett. // 42 W. 11th St., Wilmington, DE; 302-594-3100; rates for two nights start at $470
Fairville Inn
Voted the most romantic inn in the Mid-Atlantic by readers of Karen Brown’s Guides, this elegant B&B puts you in the heart of Brandywine Valley, close to all the major attractions. Recognized by the National Historic Register, the Main House has a breakfast room and cozy sitting area. All guest rooms in the Main House have private baths and Americana-style furniture. Eight rooms have fireplaces, two are suites, and several have private decks. The Carriage House and Springhouse are separate buildings nestled among the Inn’s leafy gardens with views of a neighboring pond. Complimentary breakfast involves freshly baked bread and a choice of three hot entrées. They serve afternoon tea daily. // 506 Kennett Pike (Route 52), Chadds Ford, PA; 610-388-5900; rates for two nights start at $370
Inn & Spa at Montchanin Village
Once a town for employees who served the du Ponts at Winterthur and Hagley, this collection of small houses now functions as a luxury inn. Some buildings date back to 1799, but all are carefully restored. Today, the Inn is recognized as a Small Luxury Hotel of the World and member of the Select Registry. The idyllic guesthouses have flower gardens and are furnished in fine antique furniture with sumptuous textiles. The House rooms have a gas fireplace, kitchenette, coffee maker and fridge. The Superior Suite has a gas fireplace, kitchenette, sitting area and spacious marble bathroom. There’s a full-service spa with dozens of treatments, a fitness center and a charismatic dining venue called Krazy Kat’s Restaurant (featuring portraits of cats in regal outfits). The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner with an emphasis on French and seasonal cuisine. // 528 Montchanin Road, Wilmington, DE; 302-888-2133; rates for two nights start at $384