Not so long ago, a plate filled with a whole fish (head and tail included) would be more likely to inspire horror than cravings among most eaters. But as NoVA’s palate has expanded globally, diners have realized that there are delicious advantages to wresting a crispy bit of cheek from an oversized fish.
Yes, fish heads, particularly those attached to a chunky branzino, are in vogue across our region. But whether it’s a fried tilapia at your favorite Salvadoran takeout spot or one of the more upscale choices listed here, there are lots of reasons we’re loving whole fish right now.
Indochen
Indo-Chinese cuisine is exactly what it sounds like: Just as our Chinese takeout grew to suit American tastes, so too have South Asian spices inflected India’s version of Chinese food. Fish Mandarin is a dish that masterfully ties together the two flavorful traditions. Featuring a pan-fried whole pompano, the squat little fish is presented in a pool of sweet-and-spicy sauce and buried in vegetables and microgreens. Not enough whole fish for your meal? Start your repast with fried sardines presented in a charred tomato sauce. 1625 King St. and 4906 Brenman Park Dr., Alexandria
Joon
Among the feasting plates sized for parties of two or more at this Persian restaurant, one of the crown jewels is the whole roasted branzino. If not for its herbaceous stuffing, the extra-large sea bass looks like it could swim off the plate. It’s covered in barberries and flower petals, but if that’s not enough color for your family, it’s served with a verdant-looking side of crispy fava bean-and-dill rice. You don’t need a celebration to eat this but ordering it may turn your evening into one anyway. 8045 Leesburg Pk., Ste. 120, Vienna
The Maple Room
The steaks may be the marquee items at this new American restaurant inside the former Amphora diner, but what gets top billing among the composed entrées? The grilled whole branzino. It’s served with coconut curry sauce that elevates the fish to a creamy delight that eats like updated Southeast Asian comfort food. A side of broccolini buried in cashews gives the flavors on the plate an additional zip. 377 Maple Ave. W., Vienna
Maya Bistro
Perched on a large square plate, this grilled branzino looks like it’s about to rise to meet your fork. Drizzled with lemon and olive oil, you’ll wish it did, if only to hasten its journey to your mouth. Get your crisp-skinned specimen with a mound of bulgur, a pair of fresh grated root-vegetable salads, and grill-marked tomato and pepper. The nutritious dish is light enough that you may still have room for a sweet, stretchy künefe to end the evening. 5649 Langston Blvd., Arlington
Nostos
With a knife and a spoon, your server fillets the whole branzino tableside, leaving you with a Zorba-like lust for life — and delicate fish without the responsibility of picking out pin bones yourself. A squeeze of lemon is all the grill-marked fish needs to sing along with fresh vegetables and potatoes browned in the oven. Looking for an alternative to all the branzino that’s on menus? There’s lightly sweet dorado (better known as mahi-mahi), too. 8100 Boone Blvd., Vienna
NUE: Elegantly Vietnamese
What’s better than a crispy, wild-caught whole fluke? Sharing it with your friends! This summer flounder is the star on a mega plate of lettuce wraps and can be ordered in two sizes: medium and large. The do-it-yourself dish is meant to be consumed as part of a family-style meal. Grab a piece of meaty fish with sparklingly fresh herbs and vermicelli, dip it in the sweet-and-funky pineapple nuoc cham, and enjoy the crunch. 944 W. Broad St., Falls Church
Tiki Thai
Here, and at sister restaurant Sense of Thai in Ashburn, diners have long been indulging in fried branzino that’s flaky and mild on its own. The cubes of brittle skin take on a much stronger personality when they’re paired with a spikily spicy tamarind-chile dipping sauce. The heat is worthy of a sip of one of the restaurant’s tiki-inspired tipples, perhaps a Pain Killer #2, to ease the sweet burn. 12100 Sunset Hills Rd., Ste. 107, Reston; 1651 Crystal Dr., Arlington
Feature image of whole fish at Joon by Michael Butcher
This story originally ran in our July issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
