Eastern Shore Getaways: The allure of a slower pace calls. Discover the mystique of small Maryland and Virginia towns and find places where you can relax and unwind. This is where you’ll find superb seafood, adventurous shopping, and dozens of ways to connect with the region’s pristine natural beauty on land and water.
Summer travel can seem like a drag to people who don’t love crowds. For those who want some peace and quiet on their next family vacation, Cape Charles may be the place. The Virginia town of about 1,200 full-time residents on the southern part of the state’s Eastern Shore is a bargain as well. Its public beach, Cape Charles Town Beach, is the only one on the state’s Eastern Shore with no entrance or parking fees, and lodging, dining, and activities won’t break the bank.
Parents can rest easy here — the Chesapeake Bay’s shallow waters and lack of waves mean the beach is safer for children. Stick around to watch the epic sunsets over the water. Kayaks and jet ski rentals are available through Poseidon Watersports for those looking for a little adventure. Visitors can further explore the natural beauty of the region by biking, birding, hiking, fishing, or taking a boat tour. It’s free to fish from the 300-foot Cape Charles Fishing Pier. Licenses aren’t required, and it’s lighted for night fishing. Spot animals and flowers while taking an easy hike along the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge Butterfly Trail.
Cape Charles is quiet but not sleepy, a nice blend of activity and ease. Laid out in a grid where the streets are in alphabetical and numeric order, getting around is effortless. Events are going on most weekends, and there’s free live music in Central Park. Carriage tours of the quaint downtown, lined with Victorian buildings, are popular. Cape Charles Mini Golf, with its beautiful landscaping and impressive menu that even has gluten-free options, is a hit with families.
There are plenty of independent shops and art galleries to explore in the walkable downtown. Grab a coffee and peruse the new and used books at Peach Street Books, located in a former gas station. Taste fudge and classic sweets at Cape Charles Candy Company. Take home some local art from Lemontree Gallery and Studio. And buy gifts that give back at Voiajer, a fair-trade store that supports nonprofits in Haiti and Thailand.
Before leaving, make sure to snap a photo in front of the LOVEworks’ LOVE Sign on the beach, decorated with natural materials like sea glass and seashells to reflect the community.
Where to Eat
The dining scene is varied for such a small town. From casual pubs to more upscale eats, it has everything you need. You might start the day with fresh pastries and coffee at Mason Avenue Bakery. For lunch, perhaps The Shanty, a lively seafood joint with a waterfront patio, for dishes like Virginia blue crab dip, clams in garlic and butter broth, raw oysters, and fry baskets. Or head to Cape Charles Brewing Company for award-winning, housemade clam chowder, live music, and craft beers like Smith Island Oyster Stout (oysters added to the boil give it a touch of saltiness).
For dessert or a snack, Brown Dog Ice Cream serves doughnuts, churros, and decadent drinks along with its handcrafted ice cream. Grab a Guinness at Kelly’s Gingernut Pub, an Irish pub inside a 1900s bank building (kids are welcome!). For more upscale fare, Ambrogia Caffé & Enoteca features local produce and seafood with an Italian twist; Italian-born owner Cristina Carollo was inspired by her mother’s cooking. Hook @ Harvey at the Cape Charles Yacht Center (where guests must be at least 12 years old) promises scenic views and satisfying eats like oysters Rockefeller pot pie, lamb, and scallops.
Where to Stay
Step back in time and travel like folks did back in the 1930s to ’50s with a stay at Cape Charles Tiny Livin’ (rooms from $160 to $280 a night). The tiny-house village is comprised of eight compact buildings circa 1939 that once made up an auto court, a form of lodging that predates the motel. Hosts Eric and Sylvia Watkins, proponents of the “tiny living” lifestyle and longtime RV full-timers, renovated these buildings to be modern, space-saving, and sustainable. The peaceful location, where you can sit on your private porch and hear birds chirping, is situated in the more rural part of Cape Charles, about a three-minute drive to downtown.
For travelers who’d rather be in the center of town, Hotel Cape Charles is a stylish hotel with amenities like bicycles for guests and access to golf at Bay Creek, a 27-hole private club designed by Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer.
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Feature image, stock.adobe.com
This story originally ran in our May issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.