Eastern Shore Getaways: The allure of a slower pace calls. Discover the mystique of small Maryland and Virginia towns and find places where you can relax and unwind. This is where you’ll find superb seafood, adventurous shopping, and dozens of ways to connect with the region’s pristine natural beauty on land and water.
No one stumbles upon secluded Chincoteague Island by accident. Getting there requires deliberately crossing a series of bridges, the only connection between mainland Virginia and this historic fishing village. Some visitors come specifically to see the wild horses made famous by Marguerite Henry’s 1947 children’s book, Misty of Chincoteague, while others are focused on NASA rocket launches at nearby Wallops Island. Chincoteague’s crowning glory, however, is its sole land access to the Virginia side of Assateague Island National Seashore, one of the last wild, undeveloped ocean beaches on the East Coast.
Only 7 miles long and about 1.5 miles wide, compact Chincoteague (pronounced with an SH, not a CH) is best explored slowly, so bring a bicycle or rent one at the Bike Depot or Chincoteague Bike Shop. Cycling across the bridge to uninhabited Assateague Island, home to Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, is easy and free. (There is a fee for cars.) Paths there lead to remote beaches, maritime forests, ponds, and salt marshes replete with wildlife. Sightings of Sika deer, eagles, hawks, and herons are common. Want to try shellfishing?
Crabbing and clamming are permitted in designated areas. Beach campfires, by permit, are allowed in certain areas. Must-stops are the Herbert H. Bateman Education and Administrative Center and the Toms Cove Visitor Center for exhibits, educational programs, maps, and permit information — and don’t leave without climbing to the top of the 1867 Assateague Lighthouse for sweeping, unforgettable views. Tip: Assateague is rustic. Bring your own water, snacks, and protection from the island’s famously aggressive mosquitoes.
In town, start the day with a latte from Amarin before visiting the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center to establish an itinerary. Begin with the Museum of Chincoteague Island for local history displays, including the taxidermy remains of Misty, the pony that spun the community into fame. Organized tours are an efficient way to fully experience Chincoteague, and Road Scholars offers comprehensive packages, four to six days long, including all programs, lodging, and meals. Don’t have that much time? Book a seat on a native resident-led island cruise, such as Captain Dan’s Around the Island Tours.
End the visit with a sweet from Island Creamery or Mister Whippy, browse the shops along historic Main Street, and catch a free summer concert at Robert Reed Waterfront Park, and you’ll soon be dreaming of your next trip to this place that populations long ago aptly coined the “beautiful land across the water.”
Where to Eat
Seafood rules in Chincoteague, where the oysters and clams on your plate were likely harvested hours earlier at area aquafarms. For a fresh catch, locals recommend AJ’s on the Creek, The Village Restaurant, The Pearl, Bill’s Prime Seafood & Steaks, and Don’s Seafood Market & Restaurant. Dine bayfront in the sand at umbrellaed tables at Ropewalk, or check every box at Capt. Zack’s Seafood with The Eastsider, a steamed seafood sampler (crab, shrimp, oysters, and clams), alongside a hearty bloody mary with celery, lemon, lime, olive, crab claw, and a softshell crab. The artisan tacos and atmosphere at Pico Taqueria are fun and festive, and for satisfying pasta, subs, and salads, visit Famous Pizza Family Restaurant. A food truck simply called Better. proudly serves fare made with local produce. If biking to the beach, pack some lunchtime barbecue from Backyard Firepit or Get Smoked.
Where to Stay
With sunrises on one side, sunsets on the other, and water all around, every lodging choice in Chincoteague offers guests something special. Watch dolphins swim from Sun Outdoors Chincoteague Bay cabins and campsites, or dine, crab, and fish from the comfort of your own balcony at Key West Cottages. Boat owners will appreciate floating cottages with dock slips at BluFin Bungalows & Marina. Families camping at Chincoteague Island Jellystone Park Camp–Resort receive up to six free passes to nearby Maui Jack’s Waterpark. One can’t leave without seeing a Chincoteague pony, and the Refuge Inn, open since 1973, keeps a few on site. The award-winning 1892 Channel Bass Inn Bed & Breakfast provides exquisite meals and afternoon teas. For a reliably hospitable stay, the Hampton Inn & Suites Chincoteague–Waterfront is hard to beat. Some lodging venues offer loaner bicycles to guests.
Feature image, stock.adobe.com
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This story originally ran in our May issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
