Fashion is not one size fits all; outside of petite and long inseams, very few companies attempt to make up for the differences in body types. We got the scoop from three local designers and new brands in the area that specialize in made-to-measure garments to find out why it is important to make custom-fit more accessible. Plus, they suggested the perfect holiday gift from their respective collections.
By Angela Bobo
ZOPHIA
Betsy Garcete, founder
Can you describe your brand’s aesthetic? Who is your target customer?
ZOPHIA can be described as an expression of feminine avant-garde minimalism. For example, the CEO skirt, our most popular item, seeks to embrace feminine curves with a high-waisted design, yet [it is] simple enough to pair with your typical workwear essentials. The ZOPHIA woman is powerful in every sense of the word. She holds executive-level positions or is an aspiring leader. More importantly, she understands the importance and impact of dress in every aspect of life. She isn’t scared to take risks.
What sets you apart from other local brands?
Three things: [We are] family-owned, the only custom-fit company that focuses on pencil skirts and all fittings are in person. We pride ourselves on building personal relationships with our clients.
Can you describe your custom-fit process?
There is a three-step process: a fitting to obtain measurements, a second fitting to try on the first version of the skirt or top and then a final fitting and delivery.
Why do you feel offering custom-fit is important, especially for this area?
Sadly, there isn’t much to choose from in this area. You’ll see custom-fit companies for men and almost none for women. This is something that women in D.C. need.
What is the best item in your collection for holiday gifts?
The new CFO dress, which is available in a variety of colors. If readers sign up for our CEO club online, they can receive 30 percent off any order.
More info: zophiaonline.com
Blank Label
Paige Sullivan, head of communications
Can you describe your brand’s aesthetic? Who is your target customer?
Blank Label’s brand aesthetic revolves around classic menswear with a strong focus on fit above all style customizations. We do our best to be accessible to all body types, professional backgrounds and style preferences. Our target customer is a man who is looking to find his best fit in clothing. While the majority of our clients are in the age range of 28-45, we work with men of all ages from recent college grads to retired professionals.
What sets you apart from other local brands?
Overall, we provide excellent service and fit at prices that our clients would pay for off-the-rack garments. In addition to suits and shirts, Blank Label also offers chinos, shorts, trench coats, top coats and a ready-to-purchase line of ties and pocket squares. We [also] provide a carefully curated selection of year-round and seasonal fabrics and customizations to eliminate the risk of our clients feeling overwhelmed in our space.
Can you describe your custom-fit process?
When a client comes in for the first time, they will meet their menswear specialist to discuss what they are looking for and any fit issues [they] have experienced prior to visiting Blank Label. Once the menswear specialist has a clear idea of what the client is looking for both in fit and functionality, they guide the client through their fit options.
At Blank Label we use a combination of body measurements and try-on garments to find each client’s fit. Try-on garments (a shirt, trouser, chino or jacket based on their body measurements) allow a client to see and feel different fit options on their body. It also allows for a menswear specialist to educate each client around fit and what will work best for their lifestyle.
Why do you feel offering custom-fit is important, especially for this area?
We believe that a custom-fit garment allows a man to not only look fantastic but to feel even better. When a garment fits correctly, it eliminates the stressors of getting dressed in the morning, especially in an environment where suiting is the default attire for work.
What is the best item in your collection for holiday gifts?
While many men focus on their shirts and suits for everyday wear, outerwear is often forgotten. Our Top Coat is a luxurious gift that men might not normally treat themselves to, making it perfect for a holiday gift. We also love our wool cashmere scarves, which complement any outfit from a suit to jeans and a blazer for the weekend.
More info: 1518 K St. NW, Suite 301, Washington, D.C., 20005; blanklabel.com
TSALT
Tamara Saltonstall, CEO and designer
Can you describe your brand’s aesthetic? Who is your target customer?
TSALT is our core line for a woman who travels and needs a wardrobe that offers great flexibility with chic style. The Tamara Saltonstall line is [the brand’s] couture collection of styles where the pieces can be fit perfectly to the client. [While] TSALT is more forgiving in fit and designed to bridge sizing, Tamara Saltonstall will be a level of pieces that are designed to help the client not only find dresses and separates that work for her body, but [that are] tailored to [it]. This is an ideal solution for the woman who falls outside the standards of ready-to-wear and is often using alterations to get the fit she requires.
What sets you apart from other local brands?
Many local brands still need to commit to a fit and size run in their styles in order to meet production costs and minimums. We want to be able to offer our client a personal consultation to identify where her challenges are, suggest certain styles that will work and create them in the fabrics that we offer. If the client has requests that fall outside of our model, we are always able to “upgrade” the process to fit her needs.
Can you describe your custom-fit process?
The first thing we ask the client to do is answer a few questions by email or phone as part of our discovery process. Once we have an idea of who our client is, we make recommendations from our collection on what would best suit her. Next she will come into the studio, where she will be measured and look at styles and fabrics. We will discuss what she likes and go over what can be customized—for instance the shoulder and armhole are often places where clients need more tailoring. A muslin sample will be produced in approximately two weeks, and then we arrange for a first fitting. Upon approval, we start production, and the customized piece will be completed within four to six weeks.
Why do you feel offering custom-fit is important, especially for this area?
There is a lot of attention around custom-fit today—in menswear especially. Women deserve the same options, and their bodies are much more diverse overall. Finding a solution to your wardrobe is very empowering and can change your relationship with clothing. Where once you dreaded going to find items that fit from any number of stores, you now have a place where our team of stylists and designers will guide you to a perfect silhouette and create the style tailored to your specific measurements.
What is the best item in your collection for holiday gifts?
A great unique holiday gift would be a gift card for a design consultation catered to the woman’s specific needs. This could be applied to a custom tailored dress or jacket in the fabric of her choosing. This type of gift falls under the category of “experience” gifts.
More info: Tsaltstyle.com; info@tsaltstyle.com
(November 2015)