This stylish Shirlington Italian restaurant showcases chef Cathal Armstrong’s versatile culinary talents, along with the wine expertise of its owner, Jill Erber. She has transformed her former cheese and wine shop, Cheesetique, into an intimate, cosmopolitan space. Armstrong, who has helmed distinguished modern American, Irish, and even Hawaiian-focused venues, brings his skills to a menu that offers something to please a wide spectrum of tastes.
Armstrong, who grew up in Dublin, Ireland, credits his father, a tour operator, with his early appreciation of Italian cooking. It’s a “versatile cuisine that appeals to a creative chef,” he says.
At Corso Italian, the James Beard–nominated chef has a menu that ranges widely through regional specialties. Delicious touches everywhere spark familiar dishes. Appetizers like fried shrimp — sparkling fresh specimens with a gossamer crust perched on an herbaceous green sauce — are a credit to his shopping skills, supplier connections, and expert touch.
A well-designed pasta selection offers choices to tempt a range of appetites. Rigatoni Bolognese features a balanced, just-meaty-enough, bright tomato sauce. Fettuccine and pancetta — both made in-house — star in a classy carbonara. There are several clever takes on filled pastas. We loved the artichoke agnolotti’s contrast of a creamy ricotta filling with crunchy artichoke chips.
You’ll also find oxtail ravioli served with parsnip purée and scallop risotto with chanterelle mushrooms on the menu.
Among the entrées is a cioppino fish soup chock-full of fresh seafood in a flavor-packed tomato broth. It kept us happily spooning up the luscious tastes. Succulent veal osso buco was a special the night we dined here. The tender meat was falling off the bone in its delicious juices. Other options include pork belly with cannelloni beans, veal chop with mozzarella and tomato, and a striploin steak prepared in the Tuscan manner with rosemary and garlic.
As one would expect from Erber, who’s known as the “Cheese Lady,” there are more than a dozen cheeses on offer. Several kinds of gorgonzola top a roster that includes Robiola, Taleggio, and Piave Vecchio, an Erber favorite that is aged like Parmesan. Desserts range from ultra-creamy cheesecake variations to an indulgent sundae with chocolate cake and gelato. The thoughtful Italian wine selection is presented in a format that offers a tasting of small pours that are a perfect accompaniment to a meal.
See this: Softly lit contemporary dining rooms are a stylish backdrop for delicious dining.
Eat this: Artichoke agnolotti, cioppino, veal osso buco
When to dine here: The cosmopolitan setting and versatile menu suit any occasion.
Feature image courtesy Corso Italian
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