Few dishes are as good when they’re done well and as disastrous when made poorly as biscuits. We’ve all had a biscuit-shaped rock on our plates at some point. It’s no fun. A restaurant that does almost nothing but biscuits? That could also go one of two ways. Luckily, Buford’s Biscuits in Leesburg gets it right.
The biscuits themselves are more airy than flaky, with a crumb that could practically float away. It’s possible to enjoy them unsliced, along with jam or gravy (or flights thereof), but most of the menu consists of biscuit sandwiches. For a hearty meal, this is the way to go.
Including the breakfast sandwich that’s only available until 11 am, the concise options include only five sandwiches. I tried two and can’t wait to eat the rest. But I’ll give it a few weeks. The buzz around Buford’s is still a little out of control. Though I had no trouble grabbing an outdoor table at 11 am, I still waited more than half an hour for my food. But it was no biggie, I sipped the beautifully balanced lemonade until my food was brought out to me.
My favorite of the two was the Blue Ridge, a fluffy biscuit filled with chunky country ham. The ham itself was worth the price of admission ($12.50, in that sandwich’s case), salty and almost fall-apart tender. Homemade pickles illuminated the meat, and Dijon mustard added a zip to the warm, melty fondue spooned over the top, dressing every bite.
I also tried The Nashville, a Nashville hot chicken sandwich centered around a fried chicken thigh that my dining companion called “bangin’.” Quite simply, it was one of the best pieces of fried chicken I’ve had in NoVA. The hot sauce? Legitimately spicy, if a bit too peppery for my taste. The slaw and pickle both helped to alleviate the burn.
If Buford’s is still overwhelmed by its fans, it’s not affecting the quality of the food. This biscuit’s a keeper. // 15 Loudoun St. SE, Leesburg
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