By Susannah Black
Dish: Roasted Bone Marrow, $12
Where: Columbia Firehouse, 109 S. St., Asaph St., Alexandria
Taste: Two luges of bone, plump with delicate, beige-colored tissue, sit crisscross on a white plate accompanied by a touch of greenery and toasted bread on which the marrow can be eaten. I scoop out the silky marrow (or attempt to) with the tip of my knife and onto a crunchy slice of bread, and I vacillate between feeling like a scavenger of the Ice Age and a refined Frenchman with a proclivity for delicacies. The marrow is briny, a slippery tissue of rich earthiness and mild sweetness. A marmalade topping couples the cloying flavor of honey with the pungent kick of a shallot, complimenting the marrow’s salty and savory tang. The flavor of toasted hazelnuts within the marmalade completes the dish with a nutty and buttery finish. Scavenger or Frenchman, this dish satisfies the primal and the pretentious in us all.
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