Bagel Street, a new shop on Maple Avenue in Vienna, plunges everyone’s favorite savory rounds with the most varied bagel case I’ve seen in our region.
Conservative bagel mavens will find all the classics. But those on the hunt for something more scintillating can order za’atar, smoked cheddar, scallion pancake, and more.
The brainchild of married founders Jenny Liu and Julio Santana, the creations owe more to her Chinese American roots than his Dominicans ones. But it’s clear that diversity knows few boundaries here.
The bagels themselves are less chewy than I often prefer. But when it comes to a stacked sandwich, a softer texture makes for a neater bite.
Standout Sanwiches
The bakery and café’s most notable example of the couple’s culinary creativity is the Sichuan Street. The breakfast sandwich features sweet Chinese sausage, egg, and American cheese with creamy Kewpie mayonnaise and sticky hot honey.
The Sichuan bagel serves as a base. I was expecting it to be fiery and tingly with Sichuan peppercorn, but Liu told me that the brick-red powder that coats the top, along with sesame seeds, is a Chinese barbecue spice mix. More approachable than what I envisioned, I can taste why it’s one of the restaurant’s biggest hits.
The City Hero is composed of Genoa salami, mortadella, and Edwards ham, melted with Swiss and Provolone. It’s brightened with lettuce and a dousing of vinaigrette. Though it’s usually served on a sesame bagel, I elected to try it on the za’atar one. The herbaceouness of the Levantine spice blend did wonderful things to the meaty meal. Next time, I’ll save room for the Captain’s Catch, a scallion bagel with yuzu kosho cream cheese, cucumber salad, and smoked tuna.
For traditional bagels, there are better places in NoVA to enjoy a nosh. However, if hole-y novelty is what you’re seeking, I suggest you plan a trip to Vienna. I know I will, especially if more Dominican flavors make their way onto the menu.
I’m already fantasizing of a pernil sandwich on a chicharron-topped bagel. Hey, a girl can dream. 523 Maple Ave. W., Vienna
