When I first heard about the Wonder Food Hall chain exploding into our region this summer, the name was appropriate. What exactly is this concept? I asked myself. With more than 60 locations since 2021 and a proposed 90 by the end of this year, they must be doing something right. But the idea of so many remote restaurants operating out of a single kitchen was more confusing than appetizing.
I reached out to a Wonder representative to learn more. It turns out that most of the food is par-cooked in a Parsippany, New Jersey commissary kitchen. It’s then finished onsite when a diner orders it.
According to a fact sheet, “Wonder’s culinary team works directly with the chefs and restaurants to develop a scalable menu that matches their standards and replicates the experience they strive for. Each chef and restaurant approves each dish and the entire menu before it is served via the restaurant on Wonder.”
Heavy-Hitting Menu Selection
The result? A fast-casual experience that can include some pretty heavy hitters. If you don’t mind the less-than-formal environment, you can even order a filet mignon from Bobby Flay Steak. With $75 to burn (before tax), I was able to choose from 27 restaurants that include local haunts like Maydan and favorites from around the country.
I ordered six dishes from four restaurants, which all came out of the kitchen at once in a large bag.
Hits and Misses
Not surprisingly, the quality of the eats varied. I was most excited to try celebrity chef Jonathan Waxman’s famous roasted chicken, served from Walnut Lane by Jonathan Waxman. Though I was a fan of the garlicky salsa verde atop the fowl, the not-so-crispy skin felt like it could have used a round in the air fryer. I preferred the charred broccolini I ordered on the side, with a drool-inducing lemon garlic sauce.
When I lived in Houston, I never made it to the nearby Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, but had heard nothing but great things. Operating at Wonder as Tejas Barbecue, I was impressed with the blend of crispy edges and fatty melt that I encountered between the buns of my brisket sandwich. Even better? The lush, eggy bite of the carrot soufflé I ordered with it.
Streetbird by Marcus Samuelsson was another success. More casual food seems to be a better fit for Wonder. And the crispy, juicy fried chicken sandwich with pickles and garlic aioli was a couple of steps up from what I expect of most fast food places.
But my favorite item at Wonder wasn’t prepared there. Room for Dessert‘s menu features sweets from myriad vendors. Though I’ve passed it many times, I’d never walked into a Magnolia Bakery in New York. Next time I will.
The Banana Pudding Chocolatey Hazelnut Swirl from the brand was room temperature, not too sweet and had a cloudlike texture that made the 1,050-calorie dessert all too easy to consume in a single sitting. It left me “wondering” when I can get another helping.
Feature image by Alice Levitt
