Sweet, soy-braised lotus root. Tiny quail eggs that pop almost like caviar when you break through to the yolk. Slippery slices of spicy raw octopus. These are just some of the banchan included in a meal at The Woo Korean BBQ and Cuisine in Fairfax. Of course, there is laudable kimchi, but the complimentary, unlimited small plates go far beyond what diners typically find in our region.
Traditional Meets Modern
“We wanted to share the traditional flavors and modern sensibility of Korea with people,” says co-owner Eric Woo. The Korea native — who moved to NoVA in 2002 to study at George Mason University — also owns Sushi Cho in Fairfax and runs a woodworking company in Springfield. He is responsible for every piece of caramel-colored wood in the restaurant, from grill-filled tables to decorative separations between tables.
Only a few of those tables have barbecue grills. Although the prime meats, like melting, marinated yang nyum galbi and crispy beef brisket, get marquee billing, Woo says that he also wants guests to concentrate on dishes that aren’t cooked in front of them.
Diners who can’t resist the thrill of the grill can pair the meat with one of two $11 side dishes. Both are versions of naengmyun, vermicelli-thin buckwheat noodles with an appealing stretch. While mul naengmyun is an icy soup, equally chilly bibim naengmyun is flavored with a spicy sauce that’s even more compelling with a little barbecue mixed in straight off the grill.
Crowd Pleasers
Hot dishes are among the most popular on the menu, says Woo. His assorted Korean pancakes — savory batter filled with beef or seafood — are a runaway hit. So are the braised beef ribs known as galbi jjim, available bubbling in either mild or hot broth.
And such warming delights have been bringing in crowds since September. “We didn’t know people were going to come this much!” Woo says. And the hands-on restaurateur’s empire is growing. He’s opening a second Sushi Cho in Sterling this year. But if you’re craving modern Korean fare, The Woo Korean BBQ and Cuisine is well worth the trip. 4070 Jermantown Rd., Fairfax
Feature image by Michael Butcher
This story originally ran in our February Issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
