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3 restaurants our food critic is loving right now

Where do restaurant critics eat when they’re not preparing for their latest review? Our food editor/critic, Alice Levitt, is always on the hunt for the most exciting meals, whether they’re new or just new to her. This month, these are some of the spots that she’s excited to share.

dish of meat and vegeteables
The Big Chicken Plate at Mim's Food in Fairfax. (Photo by Rey Lopez)

Mim’s Food

What to Try: Big Plate Chicken 

I’ve never liked American-style Chinese takeout (too sweet and greasy), but the cuisine of the Uighur people of the Xinjiang region of China is one of my very favorites. This new Uighur spot reminds me of my time spent eating in the region. Hand-pulled noodles are the centerpiece of dishes ranging from mean- and veggie-topped laghman to the spicy chicken and potato stew known as Big Plate Chicken. But don’t sleep on the lamb kebabs. They would not be out of place at a roadside stand in the Tian Shan mounters. // 9990 Main St., Fairfax 

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Wild Wood Pizza

What to Try: Smoked Manhattan pizza

From the ChefScape food hall to the upcoming Gogi 92 Korean BBQ, Village at Leesburg is becoming an increasingly compelling reason to eat outside of the downtown historic district. Another great reason? This pizzeria from the team behind Delirium Café. The wood-fired pies here use local ingredients to keep toppings hyper fresh. In particular, I’ve fallen for the Smoked Manhattan, which uses chunky local pork belly, along with bacon and smoked Gouda, on its garlic-brushed crust. // 1600 Village Market Blvd., Suite 120, Leesburg

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Marjan Carryout & Catering

What to Try: Zereshk polo

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I’m batty for barberries. I hit this petite market and restaurant in search of my favorite barberry-topped Persian dish, tahchin, but the restaurant isn’t preparing it during the pandemic. Instead, I was treated to some serious home cooking in the form of braised chicken over rice, loaded with my favorite sweet-and-sour berries. The kashk bademjan, an eggplant appetizer, also won me over with a crispy, minty topping and soft, fresh bread for dipping. // 155-A Maple Ave. W.,Vienna

This post originally appeared in our September 2020 print issue. For more foodie finds, subscribe to our Food newsletter.

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