An ambitious trio aims to elevate Peruvian dining
By Warren Rojas
Peru is muy caliente right now.
Virtually every travel magazine features dispatches urging one to rush to Lima ASAP to feast upon the gastronomic delights being spun out by global tastemaker Gastón Acurio. Closer to home, cross-cultural enthusiast José Andrés showcases the Latin-Asian fusion that pervades Peruvian cooking at the dizzying China Chilcano in the District.
Add the Peruvianized Bistro Group to the list of innovators looking to capitalize on our collective fascination with South American cuisine.
Business partners Cynthia Guillen, Gustavo Fernandez and Nancy Wallace took over Aguaymanto Grill last summer. The budding restaurateurs recently renamed it PERU 703.
“Peruvian cuisine is among the most varied and best in the world,” Guillen, who serves as general manager of the freshly revamped establishment, asserts. “Unlike other Hispanic cuisine, our essence has no limits—from sweet to sour, from spicy to lime juice, our combinations always lead to more flavors.”
The management shuffle hasn’t drastically altered the 5-year-old entity.
It remains the only independent venture amidst a gauntlet of franchise eateries.
A new bar setup was expected to complement rather than disrupt a décor scheme punctuated by captivating images of Machu Picchu and Peru’s indigenous population.
An Internet jukebox remains as confused as ever. The digital DJ routinely pumps out loungified covers—think The Supremes’ “Baby Love” rearranged as bossanova or Ke$ha’s “Die Young” strummed on Spanish guitars—while wildly diverse acts battle weekly for the honor of most-requested tune. (Wonder who won the Peru Negro vs. Hozier showdown?)
The original menu, which featured classics ranging from lomo saltado (marinated steak) to choros a la chalaca (steamed mussels), has been enhanced with appetizing updates. Noteworthy additions include quinoa “salads” weaving the nutrient-rich grain with pico de gallo and avocado, as well as soy-sauced rice medleys bolstered by savory meats and succulent seafood.
“See, it looks like mashed potatoes. I don’t know how they do it,” a baffled patron announced while hoisting aloft a ground beef-filled papa rellena.
A tamal arrives tableside still wrapped in banana leaves. Beneath the moisture-locking greenery resides an oblong cake of spiced cornmeal in which chunks of tender chicken breast and briny black olives are embedded. Tangy onion and juicy tomato power the corresponding salsa criolla; the acidic accompaniment helps balance out the starchy main event.
Leche de tigre summons a citrus-fueled stunner. “I love aggressive onion,” one companion proclaimed while slurping down the sinus-clearing mélange of red onion, garlic, hot peppers and raw fish swimming in herb-laced lemon juice.
Plenty of folks seem to gravitate toward the housemade rotisserie chicken. Slow-cooked bird yields the same spice-rubbed skin—smacks of salt, pepper, cumin and smoke—and fork-tender meat locals have grown accustomed to over the years.
Anticuchos proved much more intriguing.
The skewered and grilled beef hearts appear naked on the plate. But each bite reveals mouthwatering offal enrobed in luscious red wine, nutty olive oil and bitter herbs. Daredevils can up the ante by smothering the livery morsels with rocoto sauce. The emerald-colored preparation flares up initially but gradually fades, whereas the ruby red version roasts receptors with steadily mounting heat.
An order of tacu tacu packs in a whole lot of information. The underlying marriage of refried pinto beans and jasmine rice is layered with grilled steak, zesty salsa criolla, slices of blistered tomato and sauteed onion, all crowned with a fried egg. The beans are irresistibly creamy, the glistening yolk showers all in liquid gold when punctured, and the adeptly seasoned beef is generously distributed throughout the dish.
Aji de gallina delivers forkfuls of chili-spiked chicken drenched in sumptuous cheese sauce. “That’s even better than the one your family makes,” a confidant fearlessly pronounced upon sampling chef Pedro Arrieta’s intoxicating creation.
Guillen mapped out plans to introduce sushi offerings, a mixed grill and perhaps lamb dishes in the future.
Like my proudly Peruvian mother always says: barriga llena, corazon contento. (Full belly, happy heart.)
Notes:
PERU 703
First time trying Peruvian? The eponymous sampler provides a tasty introduction.
Appetizers: $7-$17
Entrees: $7-$21
Open: Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Sunday, brunch Saturday and Sunday
Contact: 5005 Westone Plaza, Suite D, Chantilly
peru703.com
( December 2015)