How’s this for a sign of a satisfying meal? On a recent Monday at 8 p.m., every table at Tiger Dumplings in Clarendon was full. I had to wait more than 20 minutes for a seat on a night that I assumed not only wouldn’t necessitate a reservation, but would be kind of dead.
Did the food match the neighborhood’s apparent enthusiasm? Mostly. With a Szechuan-leaning, pan-Chinese menu of greatest hits, from soup dumplings to spicy noodles, it’s not easy to whittle down one’s selections. Fans of local chain Yu Noodles will find the bill of fare familiar, though stacked with more luxurious items, including a pair of $75 prix-fixe menus and black-truffle-wagyu-beef dumplings.
The latter are folded into mink-gray skins that glisten from the steamer. The promised truffle flavor is hard to detect, but the rich wagyu bursts with unctuous rendered tallow. Its a lush bite, intensified by sauce the diners make themselves from the chile oil and soy sauce waiting on the table.
The same dip is a boon to the pot stickers, crispy pan-fried dumplings available in several different flavors. I tried the sweet-corn-pork version. The dumplings, with their wafer-like fried skins are a symphony of textures, including juicy pork and popping kernels of corn.
Soup dumplings arrive with a pre-made sauce, heavy on vinegar and julienned ginger. It’s the ideal combination to illuminate the warming flavors of the brothy bites. The spicy pork soup dumplings were sold out by the time I was seated, so I tried the classic Shanghai soup dumplings. I was impressed with both the glut of soup inside them and the intense flavor thereof.
I rarely pass up a chance to sample a restaurant’s dan dan noodles. The pasta at Tiger Dumplings is cooked to a textbook al dente, despite the thinness of the noodles themselves. The spice level on the tingly Szechuan noodles is pleasant, but wouldn’t be overpowering even to many more sensitive palates.
That’s part of a winning combination at this apparent crowd-pleaser. I only wish that the service were more attentive — my water glass was never filled and a bus boy had to get my party our check. But I understand. This is a new, busy restaurant. And I agree that it’s bustling for a reason.
3225 Washington Blvd., Arlington
See this: Expect a diverse crowd to gather in the front dining room. Larger parties have a special seating area of booths toward the back.
Eat this: Dan dan noodles, black-truffle-wagyu-beef dumplings, Shanghai soup dumplings
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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