You’ve heard of girl dinner, but on a recent Sunday, it appeared that new Clarendon hot spot Coco B’s, from B Social Hospitality, has found the secret to girl brunch. Thankfully, it’s far heartier than a collection of snacks. Still, young women packed the downstairs of the restaurant and bar that opened in August. And Coco B’s is gaining a reputation for its rooftop space.
What’s the attraction in the neighborhood that is packed field of options? To start, there’s the fact that gals can gather over unlimited mimosas. For $20, all refills for an hour-and-a-half ring up at 25 cents. I saw even more guests taking advantage of the Espresso Tini, made with a house espresso blend. Other brunch cocktails include a take on the bloody mary that uses jerk seasoning to spice up the traditional tomato-and-vodka tipple.
But I was there for the food. Chef Juan Olivera has concocted a menu of dishes far more interesting than it needs to be. Yes, I saw some ladies sticking to the salad, but even that features tropical fruits and hearts of palm in jerk vinaigrette. After I ordered, I immediately regretted not going for the jerk chicken and waffles, which sped by with a tiny silver pitcher of rum and Old Spice maple syrup.
My dining companion and I began with Coco B’s cinnamon rolls, which looked suspiciously uniform. Whether they were crafted in-house, I couldn’t argue with their flavor or pillowy softness.
It’s difficult to take a decent photo beneath neon reading, “Pink as f**k!” Just trust me when I say that the picture here does no justice to the oxtail hash. Though my plate was missing the crunchy plantains mentioned on the menu, the nuanced collection of sweet, sour, spicy, and umami elements drew me to demolish the plate of tender hash, pickled vegetables, crispy potatoes, and oozy eggs finished with tabasco aioli.
My dining companion wanted to see what Coco B’s would do with a more standard breakfast and found that it was a hangover-curing ode to salty meat. A slice of Spam, a pile of crisp bacon, and a coarsely ground sausage link filled much of the plate. Home fries and sweet coco bread added carb appeal to the scrambled eggs finished with black volcanic salt.
You don’t have to be a girl to enjoy Coco B’s girl brunch. All you need is a palate for fun cocktails and a bit of pan-Caribbean culinary innovation.
2854 Wilson Blvd., Ste. B, Arlington
See this: Feathered light fixtures, pink neon signs, and a mural depicting flamingos transform the space into a whimsical tropical wonderland.
Eat this: Coco B’s Cinnamon Rolls, oxtail hash, Island Grand Slam
Feature image of Island Grand Slam by Alice Levitt
For more local reviews, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine’s Food newsletter.
