Are there two more beautiful words when strung together than “bottomless brunch?” On par with “I love you” and “It’s not malignant,” a Sunday-afternoon repast without limits is about as good as it gets. Make it Turkish, and you’ve got yourself a recipe for brunching bliss.
At Agora Tysons, inside the Nouvelle Apartments building, $38.99 buys you two hours of mowing down more than a dozen (I lost count at 16) plates of Anatolian eats. And that’s just what comes to the table without the guests requesting it. If you’re lucky, you’ll score one of the basket-style seats by the window, but the truth is, even the bar area, where I ended up sitting when I made a last-minute reservation, is a transporting beauty, full of Turkish-style lights and decorations, but never falling into the realm of excess or kitsch.
Still, atmosphere plays a secondary role at best when confronted with a heaving table to explore. Warm, fresh flatbread arrives first, with a series of dips close on its heels. Acuka, a red-pepper-and-walnut dip, starts things off with a bang. Another red-pepper-based dip, htipiti, is dotted with feta and thyme for a flavor that further wakes up the palate. Even the hummus strikes a lovely balance between notes of garlic, lemon, and nutty tahini.
Egg lovers have options. There are mouthwateringly tangy deviled eggs with a hint of truffle, presented in a pool of pesto. Salmon eggs Benedict, in the foreground of the above photo, is centered around an egg poached just to the point of achieving a solid exterior. The moment a fork breaks in, the warm center spills out over a bed of guacamole and smoked fish.
More of a breakfast pizza person? The pair of Turkish pides is sure to satisfy. The boat-shaped flatbreads are filled with mozzarella and served scorchingly hot. It’s impossible to pick a favorite between the vegetarian version with its feta and diced tomatoes, and the meaty sucuk (beef sausage) and pesto.
Though I didn’t really have room for more after the initial onslaught, I ordered one additional item, also included in the price. The French toast is worth every calorie. The egg-imbued brioche is dusted in pistachios and powdered sugar, then served with “baklava syrup,” fresh berries, and cream. The whole truth? I almost ordered a second one. Hey, when brunch has no bottom, there’s little excuse not to.
7911 Westpark Dr., Tysons
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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