Want to learn what the 44th POTUS ate before the 2012 debate prep, on 2008 election night and in his Chicago kitchen as a senator? Even if revisiting the lives of the previous White House dwellers doesn’t sound appealing, there’s enough charm and wonkiness, plus simple recipes, to enjoy in Eat a Little Better: Great Flavor, Good Health, Better World by Sam Kass. The former White House chef doubled as a senior adviser on nutrition policy, spending days fighting the potato lobby and nights cooking a 6:30 p.m. dinner for the first family.
The lengthy introduction spans Kass’ time in the kitchen, from learning fine dining in Austria to serendipitously becoming the personal chef to the Obamas during the 2008 campaign. He reshaped their pantry (think lots of glass jars with nuts and dried fruit, banishing sinful treats to higher shelves) and cooked dinner mostly for Michelle and the girls as Barack traveled the country. Kass provides details and context on his mantra, “eat better, not ‘right.’”
Recipes start with exactly what Kass and Michelle Obama have long promoted: vegetables. Two chapters, one on roasted, another on grilled, showcase the range of vegetable preparation (oven-charred cabbage, grilled Swiss chard), plus sections dedicated to sea creatures (an explainer on farmed- and wild-fish purchases), chicken (“the meat responsible for the lowest greenhouse gas emissions”), pork (showcasing the shoulder’s versatility), beef (only one recipe for ribeye, with four sauces) and grains and beans (just as important for their dose of fiber as their soil-healing capabilities).
On brand, there are no dessert recipes, but for some, the many photographs of the handsome Kass will suffice.
