Maharani Palace, Herndon’s new Indian restaurant, may be one of the prettiest places to dine in Northern Virginia.
The former Mellow Mushroom in Herndon has undergone a complete transformation into a palatial restaurant worthy of its name. Amid the wafting perfumes of tandoori chicken, a server eagerly offered me and my dining companion a tour through all the restaurant’s nooks and crannies. The interior is decorated with everything from hanging burgundy-and-gold umbrellas to a gilded coach fit for carrying a maharajah to his place at one of the black leather-upholstered thrones that line the expansive room. Or perhaps it would carry him and his family to the buffet behind the bar.
I was initially concerned when I arrived at noon and learned that lunch is buffet-only at the restaurant. I already had dreams of mewa murgh tikka, a chicken kebab marinated with dried fruit, dancing in my head. But sometimes, not having to choose can be a blessing.
I didn’t get a count of the items on the buffet, but its scale matched the royal theme. The feast was a steal at around $20, and a packed dining room ensured ample turnover to keep items fresh.
I had four courses and only scratched the surface. In fact, I almost missed a pani puri (gol gappa) station where diners assemble their own chaat from well-spiced elements. I’ve had a special affection for the crispy, liquid-filled snacks since they subbed in for a box of chocolates in Laal Singh Chaddha, the Indian adaptation of Forrest Gump. Still, there was room for only one bite of the tangy treats.
I also enjoyed a plate of snacks that included cool dahi balla, fried lentil fritters submerged in yogurt sauce and doused with sweet and spicy chutneys. The sambar, a complex stew that comes with UFO-shaped idlis, fermented rice-and-lentil cakes, was especially thick and hearty.
This was in keeping with the nearly over-the-top richness of much Maharani Palace’s food. Even the lentil dish I tried was creamy, buttery, and vibrantly spiced. All of the four stews that I tried were standouts, including the melting bone-in goat vindaloo, though it was less fiery than I would have preferred. Servers bring blackened and blistered butter naan fresh from tandoor to table, the one thing besides cocktails and mocktails that isn’t on the buffet at lunchtime.
I finished with a cup of chai masala and a pair of desserts: gajar ka halwa, a sweet and buttery carrot pudding, and a vermicelli version of kheer, a creamy treat usually made with rice. The latter of the two had enough saffron to bankrupt the average restaurant, but with the lunch crowd filling the thrones on a recent Monday, I’m not too worried about Maharani Palace. Chef-owner Neel Kamal, who is also responsible for the design of his restaurant, should prepare for more throngs of diners. After all, he’s got one of the prettiest (and tastiest) new destinations in NoVA.
1030 Elden St., Herndon
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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