Your Instagram feed may have already told you that Soko Butcher Shop & Market has the best cheesesteaks around. Since it opened last month in downtown Leesburg, countless influencers have gotten in line for the meaty, cheesy delights of the Philly with its housemade take on Cheez Whiz and freshly shaved prime rib. But there’s far more to Soko than a single sandwich.
In fact, the butcher shop’s tiny kitchen turns out more than 20 mouthwatering combinations. I was close to ordering the Sir Lambcelot — featuring braised lamb shoulder on focaccia with tzatziki, chimichurri, and arugula — or one of the Italian subs. Their time will come.
Instead, my affection for Korean barbecue compelled me to start with the bulgogi. When my brother owned a market and café in Vermont in the early aughts, I begged him to make me a “Gogi Hoagie.” It never materialized at that restaurant, but the version at Soko was worth waiting for.
The shaved Denver steak (a cut also known as “chuck under blade”) is marinated with prominent ginger and sesame, with an unusual but enjoyable edge of vinegar. Gochujang mayo adds a slightly sweet heat, contrasting with the coolness of cucumber, scallions, carrots, and mixed greens. My only quibble? The soft roll couldn’t stand up to the moisture of the succulent sandwich. I would love it if Soko invested in something more substantial.
I’m always in search of the best butcher-shop burgers and have eaten them around the globe. Thanks to its double dry-aged beef patties, the Smashed Soko earns its place among the tastiest. Its greatest asset may be its simplicity, with just intensely flavorful meat, American cheese, and mayonnaise on a potato bun. However, the counter staff is happy to add vegetables, should you crave a crunch.
I asked the same friendly helpers which version of the loaded fries to choose: chicken or brisket. They said that the chicken would be less soggy, so I gave it a go. They may have been right, but the fries were still overwhelmed with the moisture of cheese sauce, house aioli, and pickled cucumbers and onions. I ended up mostly picking out the fried chicken. The poultry was a highlight of my first meal at Soko. I would come back just for the crisp-and-juicy tenders.
It’s not all sandwiches. I drank a Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray with my lunch and finished with a banana pudding Nightingale Ice Cream Sandwich. Browsing the shop, I made future plans to pick up not just steaks, chops, and sausages, but also hard-to-find treasures. I’ll be back for lamb tallow, frozen D’Artagnan game meats, and house-branded banana butter.
With murals of bony chops and Gangs of New York villain Bill the Butcher silently presiding, Soko is my kind of place. And most importantly, there’s so much beyond cheesesteaks to excite not just meat lovers, but all fans of high-quality, handcrafted comfort food.
15 Loudoun St. SE, Leesburg
Feature image of Soko by Alice Levitt
