Savannah is a polished city with a fun-loving side. Take your first steps onto the cobblestone streets and you’ll see, it’s one part roving party and two parts relaxation.
This beautiful city in Georgia is the perfect place for a stroll, whether that’s in Forsyth Park with its graceful fountain, or the busy riverfront promenade. As one of the oldest settlements in America, Savannah’s preservation of historic squares and diverse architecture inspires admiration from visitors and citizens alike.
As you traverse downtown Savannah, you’ll recognize how perfectly organized it is. In fact, it was the country’s first planned city when founded in 1773 by British Gen. James Oglethorpe. At that time, the land was home to the Yamacraw Indians, led by Chief Tomochichi, who peacefully negotiated with Oglethorpe to allow English arrivals to settle here.
Square Route
Oglethorpe’s Savannah Plan was to construct street grids with 24 squares where people could meet and do business. “Positioned around the squares were individual homes — 40 homes per square, with places of worship, a market, and a government building for representatives to the city,” says T.C. Michaels, historian and founder of Genteel & Bard Fine Southern Lifestyle & Touring Adventures.
“Within those squares were live oaks, planted 150 years ago and perfectly spaced because they knew, in time, the fingers of those trees would provide shade for the city streets,” Michaels says.
Savannah is divided into neighborhoods such as Moon River District, Victorian District, and Starland District. Tybee Island’s pristine beaches are 25 minutes away. Most people begin their visit by exploring the Historic Landmark District where the paddleboats dock along the Savannah River.
Twenty-two squares remain and are ideal for sitting a spell. Remember that bench in Forrest Gump, where Forrest sits as he shares his life story? That was in Savannah’s Chippewa Square, and although the bench is now on display at the Savannah History Museum, the serene vibe endures.
A Spirited City
Michaels is a storyteller and historian, and his Savannah History Tour is an excellent introduction to help get your bearings. If you’d rather ride than walk, choose an Old Savannah Trolley Tour with actors who portray notable Savannah citizens, such as Juliette Gordon Low, founder of the Girl Scouts.
Another intriguing experience is visiting Bonaventure Cemetery, which epitomizes Savannah’s ghostly past. Guides point out the headstones of souls lost to yellow fever or the Civil War and that of songwriter Johnny Mercer, who co-wrote “Moon River.” Other spooky excursions venture out into the night by lamplight. Savannah is widely recognized as one of America’s most haunted cities.
But that doesn’t mean it’s scary. Quite the opposite. Savannah is friendly, patient, and welcoming. Nicknamed “Hostess City of the South,” it’s also progressive, in part because of the influx of students who attend the prestigious Savannah College of Art and Design. Stop by the SCAD Museum of Art to witness the talent and promise of a new generation of contemporary artists.
The Telfair Museums, with three distinct buildings that house art, architecture, and artifacts, are also worth visiting. The Telfair Academy is home to the Bird Girl statue from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, a true crime book about a notorious Savannah murder.
Raise a Glass
For a town that celebrates social drinking and has an open container policy (you can walk outdoors with cup in hand, and visitors are likely to witness several “pedal pubs” — essentially moving bars/bikes pedaled through the streets), it’s surprising to learn that Savannah had two prohibitions.
You can learn about both at the city’s American Prohibition Museum, which includes a speakeasy at the end of the tour. Tip: You can also bypass the museum and enter the door marked “220 Congress Street Up.” According to Stu Card, co-author of Savannah Food: A Delicious History, you’ll find Prohibition-era cocktails there that you can’t find anywhere else.
Another speakeasy that conjures a sense of clandestine fun is The Ordinary Pub, a subterranean bar with a memorable brunch. Card recommends trying the Pork Belly Donut Sliders. “You’ll mark your life by the time before and after you had your first pork belly doughnut,” he says.
Rolling Down the River
Because of its thriving port, Savannah has always been an international city. Down on River Street, you’ll see boats docked or paddling up the Savannah. You can board a Savannah Riverboat Cruise for dinner, lunch, or a narrated sail with views of Old Fort Jackson. Built during the War of 1812, it’s now a child-friendly maritime museum.
Along the riverfront are iconic shops and restaurants like Savannah’s Candy Kitchen, a store known for its praline patties, and Leopold’s, an ice cream shop founded in 1919.
Savannah City Market opened in the 1700s for imports and trade that included selling enslaved people, who by 1790 made up three-quarters of Savannah’s population. You’ll get a sense of the city’s role as an American center of commerce but also understand its painful legacy when you see the African-American Monument on River Street depicting a family with chains at their feet.
To hear a moving story of resilience, join the history tour at the First African Baptist Church, one of the oldest Black churches in America. Learn how Savannah’s Black residents raised funds to construct their own church in 1859 and ushered runaways to freedom on the Underground Railroad.
Hometown Cooking
Savannah is across the Talmadge River Bridge from South Carolina’s Lowcountry, where a community known as the Gullah Geechee fish, crab, and practice traditional crafts. Along with influences from the early European settlers, Savannah’s culinary history is greatly impacted by Gullah Geechee culture, according to Card, the author who co-owns Savannah Taste Experience (and attended Centreville High School in Fairfax County).
“Mashama Bailey, chef-partner of The Grey, has been important to that, and her influences have changed Savannah,” Card says. Bailey uses local ingredients in her reinterpreted Southern dishes and has won two James Beard Awards, including Outstanding Chef in 2022. A good primer for visiting Savannah is watching Bailey on the Netflix series Chef ’s Table.
Many people associate Southern towns with fried chicken or shrimp and grits, and you can try these dishes at The Olde Pink House restaurant. Card recommends chef Brandon Carter’s Common Thread, which features Carolina Gold Rice and oysters on the menu; Zunzi’s for the best sandwiches in town; and Starland Yard, a food truck park that serves cuisine for every taste.
If you associate good eating with leisure, then Savannah’s your city. If you like the idea of strolling city streets under shady trees or tucking into an upscale hotel for an amazing night’s sleep, then Savannah has you covered. “Visitors ask me, what do you guys do for fun?” Card says. “Whatever we do, it’s relaxed. Walking around town, stopping for a drink after work or heading to the beach, it’s always about enjoying the moment.”
Where to Dine
The Grey
Try modern Lowcountry cuisine that the James Beard Award–winning chef calls Port City Southern. The space was formerly a 1938 art deco Greyhound Bus Terminal. thegreyrestaurant.com
Common Thread
This upscale restaurant focuses on an epicurean experience that blends international, local, and seasonal dining. The group also owns Wildflower Café near Telfair Square for lighter fare, and Strangebird Savannah, a diner in a Streamliner. commonthreadsavannah.com
The Olde Pink House
Known for traditional Southern cuisine, this iconic restaurant is in a charming pink Victorian home built in 1771. theoldepinkhouserestaurant.com
Starland Yard
This food truck park features rotating vendors and permanent resident Vittoria Pizzeria. Look for live music and culture events in the welcoming and family-friendly outdoor space. starlandyard.com
Zunzi’s
Enjoy hearty sandwiches, wings, and salads. The menu includes frozen cocktails and spiced ciders and incorporates South African ingredients. zunzis.com
The Ordinary Pub
The main attraction at this speakeasy is the bar menu anchored by “curator and mad scientist” Jessica Myers. It serves elegant bar bites and entrées and a popular brunch. theordinarypub.com
Savannah Seafood Shack
Go for the Lowcountry boil — a steaming hot bag full of shrimp, sausage, corn, and potatoes. Other finger-licking-good options are jalapeño cheddar crab poppers and Shack Cones filled with seafood or chicken. savannahseafoodshack.com
Vic’s on the River Restaurant & Bar
An elegant Historic Landmark District restaurant with stunning river views, this spot is perfect for celebrating a special occasion and trying the she-crab soup. vicsontheriver.com
The Little Crown by Pie Society
“Georgia’s smallest bar” is a tiny, history-inspired pub with creative cocktails that pair nicely with sausage rolls, pizza pasties, quiche, and chicken curry pie. britishpiecompany.com
Cha Bella
The menu at this uber-popular, farm-to-table restaurant changes frequently. Highlights might include the pork and whiskey board or Creole-style grouper cakes. cha-bella.com
Husk
The second location of the famed Charleston, South Carolina, restaurant is located in a Historic Landmark District Victorian mansion. Peek in the open kitchen to see how classic Southern dishes remade in stylish new ways. husksavannah.com
Where to Stay
Cotton Sail Hotel Savannah in the Plant Riverside District is a chic hotel housed in a former 1800s cotton warehouse with brick walls and windows that face the Savannah River and riverfront promenade. Although only steps from City Market and an array of bars and restaurants, it has a stately calmness, especially in River House Savannah, its fine-dining restaurant. For a livelier experience, visit the rooftop bar, Top Deck. Rates start at $250 per night including taxes, hilton.com
Hotel Bardo Savannah near Forsyth Park is a new urban resort in the Victorian District that opened in February. The wow factor in this boutique hotel in a restored Victorian Romanesque mansion is the courtyard with its pool bar, palm trees, and lounge areas centered around a tiled pool. It stands out for its wellness spa and retro design style. The restaurant Saint Bibiana features coastal Italian cuisine and cooking classes led by executive chef Derek Simcik. Rates start at $450, staybardo.com
Bellwether House is an elegant bed-and-breakfast with spacious suites and lots of perks. A member of the Historic Hotels of America, guests are treated to a complimentary breakfast spread, afternoon tea, and evening Champagne toasts where they can chat with the staff about exploring Savannah. The sophisticated furnishings are a departure from most B&Bs inside 19th-century townhouses. There’s a small spa, cozy bar, and garden. It’s close enough to dining options but far from noisy revelers. Rates start at $291, bellwether.house
Top Tours
Savannah Taste Experience offers four food tours that provide fascinating stories about the history and culture, while treating guests to delicious bites at local eateries. savannahtasteexperience.com
Genteel & Bard Fine Savannah History & Ghost Tours has four walking tours led by acclaimed experts who usher guests along the most scenic neighborhoods and point out important historic sites. genteelandbard.com
Feature image courtesy Visit Savannah
This story originally ran in our April issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.