Explore the Carolinas: In the two states to our south, you’ll find beaches, cities, and mountain towns that make for idyllic vacation spots. Before you pack the car and head down I-95 this summer, get the lowdown on some new-to-you locations in North and South Carolina — and find out what’s new this year at your old favorites.
Drive Time from Dulles: 4.5 hours
Flanked by the dune-topped beaches and sprawling neighborhoods of vacation cottages on the skinny barrier islands to the east and Interstate 95 to the west, North Carolina’s Inner Banks region is, in essence, a secondary coastline — with an impressive 3,000 miles of waterfront. Instead of the pounding surf of the Atlantic, here you’ll find the gently lapping waves of the Albemarle and Pamlico sounds and several rivers that carve and wind through the region.
Because IBX encompasses such a large area, it’s smart to strategize and explore a town or two rather than try to see it all in one trip. In New Bern, tour a replica of North Carolina’s first capitol building, historic homes, and gardens at Tryon Palace, the official residence and headquarters of the British governors of North Carolina from 1770 to 1775. The town has the distinction of being the birthplace of Pepsi; sip a fountain soda in the pharmacy where it was invented and shop for vintage-inspired souvenirs at The Pepsi Store. New Bern also served as the setting for Nicholas Sparks’ novel The Notebook; the author moved to the region with his wife in the late 1980s.
In the riverfront town of Edenton, the 1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse is one of the country’s last surviving screw-pile lighthouses. Originally used to guard the Roanoke River, it was restored and now welcomes visitors from its permanent spot in Edenton Bay. Nautical aficionados also shouldn’t miss the North Carolina Maritime Museum, which preserves the region’s coastal history and artifacts, in the picturesque town of Beaufort. Beaufort is also home to Hammock House, an 18th-century West Indies–style dwelling where the pirate Blackbeard is said to have stayed.
Not surprisingly, with all of the Inner Banks’ sounds, inlets, rivers, and creeks, boating season lasts all year. Oriental, known as the “Sailing Capital of North Carolina,” is one of the best places to sail in the U.S., thanks to its proximity to large, deep bodies of water, little to no current or tidal effects, and consistent weather and winds. Charter a Catalina sailboat or catamaran from Bow to Stern Boating, unfurl your sails, and take to the Neuse River, or watch one of the town’s monthly regattas from the shore. Grab your friends for a lazy afternoon of sunbathing and spotting oystercatchers on a pontoon or deck boat from Pamlico Boat Rentals, or paddle away the day on a kayak or stand-up paddleboard from Inner Banks Outfitters, both in Washington.
As for accommodations in the Inner Banks, you are far more apt to find charming inns and boutique properties in centuries-old buildings with Southern hospitality and nautical touches than large chain hotels.
You will find coastal elegance at the Beaufort Hotel on Taylor’s Creek, where you can watch yachts pass while taking a dip in the seasonal outdoor pool; 34° North Restaurant, located on site, spotlights Eastern North Carolina cuisine, local seafood, and osetra caviar from nearby Marshallberg Farm.
In Edenton, a bit of a culinary boom is underway, with the recent openings of the upscale-casual restaurant The Herringbone, inn-turned-supper-club the Cotton Gin Inn Culinary, and a second location of Old Colony Smokehouse, a barbecue joint from Chopped, Grill Masters: North Carolina winner Adam Hughes.
Where to Stay
In the Edenton Historic District, the 20 rooms at the romantic Inner Banks Inn are located in a Victorian mansion and three other buildings and stays include a Southern-style three-course breakfast. The Elmwood 1820 Bed & Breakfast Inn in the heart of Washington has five sumptuous rooms including “The Writer” and “The Explorer,” which display art and artifacts from the owners’ global travels. Some of the eight suites at the Aerie Bed & Breakfast in New Bern have four-poster beds, fireplaces, and soaking tubs.
Where to Eat
Cypress Hall Kitchen + Bar in New Bern. Chef Ashley Moser serves Southern cuisine with a twist, like pork cheeks with collard greens.
The Mulberry House in Washington. Sip a martini at sunset on the rooftop, then head downstairs for crab dip and grilled rib-eye.
The Hackney Restaurant & Cocktail Bar in Washington. Enjoy a seafood-centric menu in this restored 1922 bank building, with cocktails crafted with gin from the adjacent distillery.
Beaufort Grocery Co. in Beaufort. Lunch on Chef Charles Park’s gumbo and pimiento cheese-filled gougères at this casual French bistro.
What’s New
Starting June 3, American Airlines will offer direct flights from Reagan National Airport to New Bern’s Coastal Carolina Regional Airport. The newest way to breathe in the Inner Banks’ salty air and take in the maritime charm is through Harbor Towns Cruises, a ferry loop that starts in Edenton and connects five counties in the Inner Banks. Guests can dine aboard an 85-foot excursion boat while traveling across the Albemarle Sound, and additional boats are planned to act as “fast ferries” to more easily shuttle around day-trippers.
Feature photo by C2 Photography, visitnc.com
This story originally ran in our May issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
