By Victoria Gaffney
Richmond, once the capital of the Confederacy, has a distinctly historical feel. From Monument Avenue to St. John’s Church, where Patrick Henry famously declared, “give me liberty or give me death,” the city boasts numerous memorials and shrines commemorating the struggles of the South and celebrating the American past. It’s easy to see how this historical façade might mask Richmond’s artistic side. This southern city, however, is steeped in activities and excursions for the more aesthetically inclined. Many art activities also happen to be along the Richmond Garden Trail, which includes eight places to stop for a green experience. In Richmond, the bibliophile, the art lover and even the naturalist, can encounter idyllic scenery at various gardens and extensive art collections.
An Artful Walk
Perhaps the most obvious first choice is the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, which features an impressive collection rivaling museums in more cosmopolitan cities. Like most places in Richmond, these grounds have a complex past. The VMFA opened Jan. 16, 1936, in the heart of the Great Depression. The VMFA grounds acted as housing for Confederate veterans between 1886 and 1941.
The museum spans centuries and boasts art from all over the world, including American, African, East Asian, and European artwork. On exhibit through June 21 is “Van Gogh, Manet and Matisse: The Art of the Flower,” just in time for spring. The exhibit is the first U.S. exploration of 19th-century French floral still life painting. More than 60 paintings by over 30 artists are on display. A related free event, “Celebrate the Art of Flowers: Paris in Springtime,” will be held on April 25 and will have a tent sale, Zany Umbrella Circus and flower art activities.
Also on the property are the E. Claiborne and Lora Robins Sculpture Gardens, both part of the Richmond Garden Trail featuring lush green spaces, a sculpture exhibit and a waterfall. The museum offers tasty options for food as well. Try Amuse for a more fine dining experience, or sit back and relax at Best Café overlooking the Robins Sculpture Garden.
Revel in nature
Both the art admirer and nature seeker will feel at home at Maymont, another stop on the Richmond Garden Trail. Maymont offers 100 acres of both artificial beauty and the natural world, including: Italian and Japanese gardens, which are over 100 years old; a Victorian mansion; arboretum; wildlife farm; and nature center. Built during the Gilded Age—think Rockefeller, Carnegie and Vanderbilt—Maymont was the estate of James Henry and Sally Dooly. For 30 years they adorned their lavish estate and fashioned their exquisite gardens. They had no heirs, so in the early 20th century, Maymont was given to the City of Richmond. It has withstood the test of time, appearing very much the same as it did then.
“Everything is in bloom right now,” says Cathie Rosenberg, director of marketing and public relations at Maymont. “It’s the perfect time to visit.” From carriage rides to simple picnics, visitors can enjoy Maymont’s grounds for an entire day or select particular parts they’d like to see for a couple of hours. On April 25, the estate will hold the annual “Herbs Galore and More” festival, which will feature different herbs, bushes, gardening items, handcrafted jewelry and, for the first time, Virginia craft beers.
Literary devotees should not overlook the oldest house in Richmond, home to an extensive collection of Edgar Allen Poe’s writing and personal relics. Though Poe didn’t actually reside at The Old Stone House that now serves as the Poe Museum, he did live just blocks away during his time in the city. The museum, which opened in 1922, even has the look and feel of a Poe short story. From letters and manuscripts to Poe’s personal belongings, this is a stop not to be missed for the bibliophile. In addition to rooms of relics, the museum is home to the Enchanted Garden, another stop on the Richmond Garden trail and a space inspired by Poe’s poem “The One in Paradise.” It’s a simple yet elegant space ideal for a quiet stroll or even a wedding.
Other places worth a trip on the Garden Trail are the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, voted the second “Best Public Garden in North America” by USA Today; Agecroft, a 15th-century Tudor estate reconstructed in the 1920s in Richmond; Virginia Center for Architecture a Tudor revival mansion on Monument Avenue; Capitol Square, which is the location of Jefferson-designed Virginia State Capitol, a National Historic Landmark; and The Valentine, which is located in Richmond’s Court End neighborhood.
Dine, shop and stay
For a more laid-back, artsy experience, head to quirky Carytown where quaint boutiques and shops abound. Murals have become a popular public art form here—check out local muralist Mickael Broth’s work at Mellow Mushroom. The used bookshop Chop Suey often features local author and poet readings. “I like to say you can get something for everyone and one of everything,” says Camille Bird, president of the Carytown Merchant’s Association.
Richmond has plenty of great options for weekend getaways. The luxurious Jefferson Hotel, a National Historic Landmark, is a place to admire simply for its Beaux-Arts and Renaissance architectural style. Such arresting features include a full-sized Carrara marble statue of Jefferson, a magnificent staircase and opulent stained-glass windows. For something a bit more casual but not lacking in elegance, visit Linden Row Inn, a boutique hotel downtown. Poe is rumored to have played in the garden courtyard there during his youth. For a spot closer to the VMFA, check out the Museum District Bed and Breakfast; another interesting option outside the city is Edgewood Plantation, a gothic mansion from 1849.
Richmond is also a treasure trove of delicious food. Head to Stella’s for Greek food or The Roosevelt, named 2012 Restaurant of the Year by Style Magazine, for what they call “untraditional” Southern cooking. For dessert, head to the historic WPA Bakery, a place that has been a confectionery for most of the 20th century.
Contrary to popular belief, Richmond isn’t only about American history. Whether your goal is to stroll through verdant spaces abounding with garden sculptures and flowers or take in art and literary history one piece at a time, Richmond is sure to quench your thirst for aesthetic pursuits.
