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Best Asian Restaurants: No. 17 Marumen

What started as a ramen-focused restaurant with very little else, Marumen now extends with influences of China and Korea.

A small plates expansion is in the works, says owner Michael Lee, but the tonkotsu ramen continues as a staple. / Photo by Rey Lopez
A small plates expansion is in the works, says owner Michael Lee, but the tonkotsu ramen continues as a staple. / Photo by Rey Lopez

What started as a ramen-focused restaurant with very little else, Marumen now extends with influences of China and Korea with beer-battered chicken thighs in a soft white bun, pork belly and mozzarella cheese over tater tots and bulgogi beef donburi. There’s even a single banchan of crispy cucumbers in a fiery sauce, thanks to the Korean-born chef Kyung Lee. Ramen remains a draw, and even those bowls have scouted new talent: braised chicken in a miso broth and mussels, scallops, shrimp and squid have all subbed in for the usual pork. • 3250 Old Pickett Road, Fairfax

(April 2017 Best Asian Restaurants)

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