Warm salsa. I love it, and, without even realizing it, had missed it. Guajillo (pronounced wa-hee-yo), in Arlington, satisfied a deeply buried yearning with something you don’t taste much on the East Coast. And on a cold day, the blistered chiles and fresh cilantro combined to create exactly the right antidote to the chill.
I’ve repined the dearth of quality Mexican food outside Manassas a lot. You’re probably sick of it. So here, I’m doing the opposite. I’m sending you to Arlington. My sunny server told me that the team at Guajillo includes a mix of folks hailing from Oaxaca, Puebla, and Guadalajara, and it shows. Starting with that spicy-yet-refreshing salsa, sauces are a strong suit.
It was with this hope that I ordered the mole poblano. In my case, it was served over slices of chicken breast, but it’s also available with shrimp or pork belly. First, the scent of cinnamon wafted from the plate. Chocolate and sesame combined in a dark, nutty dance. The sauce tasted slightly watered down from the deepest, richest mole poblanos I’ve sampled over the years, but for NoVA, it’s still a standout.
That was especially true when I wrapped chunks of chicken in a rough-hewn, warm corn tortilla along with what the server said the staff calls “salsa tropical.” The bright-pink salsa combines beets and mango–a pairing I’d never tasted before but certainly hope to enjoy again. Garlicky refried black beans topped with grated cheese also add value to the dish.
It all started with some warm salsa, but it won’t end there. From chilaquiles to masitas de puerco, there are too many other dishes (and sauces) to try.
1727 Wilson Blvd., Arlington
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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