It was only in March that J&J Pizza debuted its first location. The DC pizzeria is part of the Crooked Run Fermentation taproom in Union Market and is named for Leesburg-based founder Jake Endres and pizzaiolo Julian Addison. Crooked Run, which started in downtown Leesburg, has three locations. The last of these, hidden among industrial parks in Sterling, is the site of the newest pizza purveyor in NoVA.
J&J opened its second store inside the food court at Crooked Run’s expansive Sterling taproom last month, joining Nectar Cocktail Bar (where customers order their ‘za), Daybreak Kitchen & Biscuit, and Señor Ramon’s Taqueria.
The first auspicious sign appeared on the drink menu. My dining companion’s favorite beverage is Boylan Bottling Co. cane cola, which is far harder to find than the company’s root beer and black cherry flavors. The next was the presence of cupping pepperoni from Ezzo. This was clearly a pizzeria that did its research.
We swiftly requested a pepperoni pie, as well as an order of wings, available in flavors including mambo sauce, Old Bay, Buffalo, and lemon pepper.
I chose garlic-Parmesan. With the online description, “Tasting is believing!,” I knew I had to have a bite. Paired with a dip of thin blue cheese dressing, I am now a believer. The meaty wings arrive in a basket with branded J&J paper that makes them look like something out of a photo shoot. And they’re as juicy and crisp as they are visually pleasing. Though they don’t taste strongly of garlic or Parmesan, the mighty wings and drumettes still have plenty of flavor, earning Endres’ title of not just brewmaster, but also “Wing King,” as he’s described on the website.
And “Pizza Prodigy” Addison? Not bad, either. As an at-home pizza maker myself, I judge much of a pizza by the “bone.” If I want to eat the crust that’s not covered in toppings, it’s a success. At J&J, I finished a whole double-sized slice, from end to end. That’s because the chewy, well-seasoned crust is a delightful avatar of New York–style mastery. The Grande cheese (the meltiest, most stretchable brand around) and crispy pepperoni conspire to make the pie even better.
The only misstep for me is the sauce. Most of my favorite New York–style pies use nothing but salted tomato puree. I found J&J’s amped-up sauce too busy, dominating the more delicate cheese and even the tangy pepperoni. But that won’t stop me from returning for a slice.
Slices vary by what’s available, but I’m hoping for some of the more creative pies, including the Hot Hawaiian; the Heat Wave, with hot honey and Calabrese salami; and Cream of the Crop, topped by creamed kale. As an accompaniment to one of Crooked Run’s weekly events like karaoke or pub quiz, I’m imagining a delightful evening of pizza, wings, and brews.
J&J Pizza, inside Crooked Run Fermentation: 22455 Davis Dr., Sterling
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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