Thompson Italian Alexandria is definitely not a clone of the Falls Church modern Italian eatery, which ranks in the Top 10 of Northern Virginia Magazine’s 2022 50 Best Restaurants. The new spot is a destination-worthy restaurant with a distinctive menu illuminated by executive chef Lucy Dakwar’s Palestinian heritage. Dakwar, who has worked side-by-side with Katherine and Gabe Thompson at the Falls Church location, is enhancing traditional Italian dishes with the clever use of Middle Eastern techniques and ingredients.
Bite into the bronzed and crunchy panzerotti (savory hand pies). The reward is a delicious ooze of ricotta, Tuscan kale, Parmesan, and Aleppo spice. Dakwar, who cooked nightly with her family while growing up in Brooklyn, adapted the dough her father developed for his Middle Eastern spinach pie. Crispy Brussels sprouts — with pomegranate salsa verde and lemony tahini subtly integrated into the earthy-tasting nuggets — are another winning adaptation.
Dakwar’s mission at Thompson Italian Alexandria is to “infuse” Italian classics with “flavors she grew up with.” So, delicately delicious smoked salmon rillettes are brightened with limoncello pearls and pickled fennel. She follows this approach in some, but not all, of her pastas. Riffing on a ravioli her mother makes with beef, herbs, and a yogurt sauce, she offers a stubby pasta with savory lamb bites and capers, raisins, almonds, and pecorino — classic Sicilian flavors introduced by conquering Arabs centuries earlier.
Another winning pasta — squid ink bucatini with scallops — celebrates common elements of Italian and Palestinian cuisines with a fennel sofrito, Calabrian chiles, Meyer lemon, and breadcrumbs. The whole fish is a masterpiece; its succulent meat enhanced by olives, fennel fronds, salsa verde, tomato Romanesco, and almonds. Several classic Italian pastas, including a rigatoni Bolognese and a gnocchi with braised chicken ragù, testify to her Italian cuisine expertise. As do hearty dishes like roasted chicken and braised short ribs.
Desserts are crafted by co-owner-chef Katherine Thompson. Happily, her highly praised olive oil cake leads the parade. Decadent chocolate desserts and house-made gelato follow.
Thompson is responsible for the smart-yet-welcoming vibe at the Old Town location. She was drawn by its intimate “West Village (NYC) feel” and its “eclectic” layout. Enthusiastic about “moody restaurants” (that are family friendly, too), her choice of textured walls and a sophisticated dark green wallpaper with a geometric gold pattern set the scene for well-spaced tables in several rooms. The bar has a sophisticated feel with an artful neon sign crafted by Thompson’s sister-in-law. 1024 King St., Alexandria
See This: A grown-up looking place that welcomes families.
Eat This: crispy Brussels sprouts, squid ink bucatini with scallops, saffron malloreddus with braised lamb shanks
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday – Sunday, 4:30-9 p.m.
Entrées: $19-$36
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