They say not to judge a book by its cover. But what about choosing a restaurant for its name? I knew Zam Zam Kabob House was not the Zam Zam Restaurant I loved in Singapore. One is a Malaysian and Indian restaurant that’s been serving murtabak since 1908. The other is a Pakistani and Afghan kebab and karahi specialist in Manassas with rather less historic cred. But when I passed by on the way to Nathan’s Dairy Bar, just up the road, my interest was piqued.
Both restaurants’ names refer to a miraculous well in Mecca that is a site of Muslim pilgrimage. A bottle of water just didn’t feel right, so I requested the Afghan green tea, flavored with cardamom, to add a little weight to my beverage order. OK, it’s not heaven-sent, but it is a flavorful alternative to the filling mango lassi.
I thought it best to order what’s in the name, so the Zam Zam Kabob platter was the obvious choice. I wasn’t prepared for the boneless chicken kebab. Not a millimeter of the meat was white–instead, it was dyed orange, marinated as effectively as I’ve tasted with a concoction that reminded me intensely of the tandoori chicken I favored in childhood. The marinade didn’t just imbue the chicken with flavor, it also tenderized it almost to the point of vaporization. But the meats didn’t end there. The beef seekh kebab was equally supple, but also juicy and sweet with onion. I had set out to eat half of the meal and save the rest for later, but both kebabs, as well as the raisins and carrots atop my rice, were soon gone. All that was left was the gigantic, puffy naan bread, and forgettable chickpea curry.
I thought my meal was over, but a server brought out a petite dish of Northern Pakistani kheer, a pudding made with vermicelli instead of rice, as I’ve usually tasted it before. The cool treat, sprinkled with pistachios, was like a refreshing oasis. Though not quite a miracle, this Zam Zam did teach me that perhaps it’s not such a bad thing to choose a restaurant by its moniker.
9091 Mathis Ave., Ste. 101, Manassas
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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