One of my favorite restaurant genres that I’ve discovered in Northern Virginia is “industrial park or warehouse.” The revelations have ranged from Nicaraguan Eda’s Latin Food, next to a Manassas auto repair shop of the same name, to the original location of Oxus 7, which grew to become one of my 50 Best Restaurants last year. Chantilly is especially rife with them. Examples off the top of my head include Ko Hyang House and Megabytes Eatery, the latter of which sticks out in my mind for its location across from the Cremation Society of Virginia.
My latest entry into the category is Chennai Express, a counter serving South Indian eats. Don’t expect great service. The lady at the counter mumbled and sang to herself throughout my meal and didn’t acknowledge me when I thanked her as I departed. So why should you go to Chennai Express? Because I just know that you’re craving a delightful dosa.
In my case, that was the masala paneer dosa, one of 21 options on the menu. The dosa itself is as light, crisp, and tangy from its fermented batter, as it should be. Ghee coats it, greasing one’s fingers for another tear at the pancake. Inside, shreds of chewy paneer are dyed yellow with turmeric. The non-melting cheese is woven with sweet, roasty caramelized onions, and fresh herbs. Between the well-spiced cheese and tart dosa, sauces aren’t really necessary, but they may be the best part of the meal.
The standout is a peanut-flavored chutney that’s more nutty than spicy. It reposes next to a similar, but less appealing coconut chutney. Two bowls of sambar are also part of the package. The soup is as spicy as it should be, drawing me back for dip after dip.
When atmosphere is beside the point or you’re like me and actually dig a little bit of an industrial vibe, Chennai Express will satisfy your appetite for a fast, satisfying meatless meal.
14516-B Lee Rd., Chantilly, Virginia; 43330 Junction Plaza, Ste. 190, Ashburn
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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