Parc de Ville
Fairfax / French / $$$
Ever people-watched over a plate of steak frites at a bistro in the ninth arrondissement? If you have, you’ve seen chic shoppers whiz by with their bags as you dip your crisp fries into some béarnaise sauce. Whether the real thing is a memory or an out-of-the-way fantasy for you, Parc de Ville, tucked into a corner of the Mosaic District, is bound to transport you.
The food is classic. You might have eaten duck confit just like the one here 50 years ago, and will again tomorrow. Whenever you enjoy it, the meat falls apart in tender shreds beneath a shroud of crispy skin, tumbling into a sweet, sticky reduction of Banyuls vinegar. Wilted Swiss chard and crunchy-jacketed potato rösti complete a picture that goes beautifully with a glass of wine, a Kir Royale, or just a San Pellegrino.
Even if you’re celebrating nothing more than a great purchase, mark the occasion with a riz au lait. The rice pudding is swirled with salted caramel, which enhances its cinnamon flavor, and is brûléed on top. You couldn’t do better, even on Boulevard Haussmann.
See this: Blue velvet banquettes and wallpaper covered in black-and-white trees set a stylish Parisian scene across the street from Anthropologie in the Mosaic District.
Eat this: Duck confit, steak frites, riz au lait
Service: Deeply informal. On my visits this year, service was not this restaurant’s strong suit.
When to dine here: You’re shopping at Mosaic and need some hearty sustenance.
Feature image by Rey Lopez
This post originally appeared in our November 2021 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.
