Food writers have a pathological hunger for the new. Those of us who eat professionally can’t really be blamed–we eat so much, it’s really excited to try something novel. And we spread our disease to consumers. Now everyone is in search of the hot new thing. But maybe we should back away and look at the bigger picture.
Taverna Cretekou opened in 1973, so it’s just two years away from celebrating its fiftieth birthday. Nothing young and hip about that. But when I visited last week, it was new to me, and it turns out, even when I have visited 50 times, I can’t imagine that I won’t be bowled over by its charm. Situated in an historic home, the downstairs is painted with murals of ancient Greek farmers and fishermen at work. Outside, there’s a covered patio that surrounds a secret garden. I was lucky enough to hit it during a rainstorm, which left me dry and utterly romanced by the drama of it all.
And the food? Regional Greek dishes that you’re unlikely to find elsewhere in NoVA. I have never been to Greece, but the Satyrikon, an appetizer plate filled with goodies, reminded me more of meals I’ve had elsewhere on the Mediterranean than most anything I’ve experienced in the United States. Anchovies wound around cubes of feta? Transporting. Swipes of taramosalata, thick Cretan tzatziki crafted with homemade yogurt, and zingy hummus all lit up the warm bread that accompanied them. The spanakopita and dolmades were each appropriately Platonic versions of themselves, with crispy and buttery phyllo for the first, and soft, tangy rice for the second.
I also tried glossa Aegeou (pictured), Aegean-style flounder beautifully caramelized and stuffed with spinach, feta, and pine nuts, then drenched in a white wine-lemon sauce. Though the tender carrot sticks and broccoli on the plate were a less-than-inspiring touch, even the mound of rice was exceptionally well prepared–sturdy and flavorful. All part of an important lesson: Don’t forget the old guard who have consistently proven themselves across the decades. Maybe we should try to make that hip.
818 King St., Alexandria
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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