Curry has certainly made its way around the world. Most of our minds go to India or Thailand when craving the fiery stews. I propose that the Caribbean and Japan should be high on the list, too. Admittedly, I rarely think of Germany when considering the curries around the globe.
But maybe I should. I recently had a curry-filled meal at Leesburg’s Döner Bistro that has me rethinking my spicy priorities. For those of us who always order the schnitzel und spaetzle when dining auf Deutsch (guilty), perhaps a reminder is due that Germany has a global cuisine.
Curry powder likely came to the country through England, which in turn obtained it in India. The döner kebab that lends the restaurant its name has filled German streets thanks to Turkish immigrants.
I sampled both those influences in a pair of dishes. Currywurst is available at Döner Bistro with either beef or pork sausage. I went with the former. The juicy beef center of each slice has a crisp jacket that withstands the sweet curry ketchup in which it’s bathed. The sugary sauce would be overwhelming if not for a thick layer of hot curry powder on top, which mitigates the sweetness with a pleasant punch of heat.
That same powder, which I kept at my outdoor table, is even better on the Döner Box, a cup of crispy fries (identified on the menu as pommes), coated in a slick of tzatziki sauce and a thick layer of freshly carved döner meat. The kebab itself doesn’t have a strong flavor beyond beef (there is a chicken option as well), so the creamy, tangy tzatziki is necessary. But the curry powder is a lovely touch that burns with chile that upends the otherwise placid flavors of the box. Sure, next time I might end up ordering the schnitzel, but I’m sure even that is better with a touch of curry. 13 C Fairfax St. SE, Leesburg
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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