Gone are the days when I lived in Vermont and, should the urge to munch on game meats hit, I simply had to wait for a nuisance bear to come calling. Finding flesh beyond the big three of beef, chicken, and pork can be a challenge outside of a rural state. But while recently in Haymarket, I discovered that Eugene’s Sausage & Fries has my back.
Specifically, the Hunter. Though the menu says the sandwich features the “chef’s choice” of exotic meat of the day, the counter server let me choose between venison, wild boar, and rabbit. The choice was obvious. I hadn’t had the last of those in more than a year, and my dining companion had never tasted the delicate meat of the lagomorph.
Rabbit is an unusual game meat in the sense that it’s milder in flavor than chicken and braises into silky strands. The mellow character of the meat means that the snappy sausage really lets the toppings of the Hunter shine. It’s buried in a soft pretzel bun beneath a thick layer of wild cremini mushrooms and a blanket of stretchy melted provolone. Mercifully savory bacon jam adds a crunch and smack of salt, while colorful pepper relish contributes a pleasant hint of acid.
Among the nine sausages on the regular menu, each one, from banh mi to Cubano-style dogs, sounds as well-thought-out as one might expect from the team behind Ethel’s New York Deli. But fries are in the name, too. I recommend the Elote Fries, crisp potatoes sturdy enough to withstand a topping of juicy Mexican street corn and zippy cilantro aioli. There’s a bit too much queso fresco for my taste, but the bright Tajín (a kitchen staple in my house) helps overcome the overload.
The truth is, I probably won’t be waiting for a game craving before I head back to Eugene’s. All I need is an appetite for summery fare prepared with a eye toward global flavor. // 5551 Merchants View Sq., Haymarket
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