Let’s get this straight: Fast food without meat is still fast food. Despite its pedigree of a big name chef (Spike Mendelsohn) and a location inside Whole Foods, PLNT Burger is nothing more or less than a counter serving burgers and fries.
But some fast food burgers are better than others, keeping flavor at top of mind. And some serve an underserved population of diners. In both these categories, PLNT Burger stands out. Vegetarians and even vegans will be delighted by the potato buns filled with nothing they can’t eat.
Case in point: the new spicy Crispy Chik N Funguy sandwich. A lip-singeing mayo dresses up a clever take on a meatless crispy chicken sandwich. In this case, oyster mushrooms give the sandwich filling a texture that mimics meat down to the tear-away muscle fiber, just with a little more bounce than the real thing. It won’t fool anyone, but it is bound to make them happy nonetheless.
The ultra-thin Beyond Meat patty of the PLNT Mushroom Bacon BBQ Burger does a less accurate job of approximating a beef patty, or at least one anyone would crave. The little puck is dry but the crispy mushroom “bacon” and crunchy onions on top are a welcome distraction. PLNT BBQ sauce is a little sweeter than I would prefer, but adds a bit of moisture to the sandwich.
The crispy herbed fries, boat-shaped with indentations perfect for carrying one of the four flavorful dipping sauces, would stand out at any fast food joint. Is PLNT Burger gourmet? Heck no. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste darn good.// 1635 Boro Pl., McLean
For more foodie news, subscribe to our Food newsletter.
