Updated January, 11, 2023. Liquid diet? Not exactly, but in the cold months, we do find ourselves craving more and more brothy bites. And we’re not alone. Soup cultures are rich across the globe, no matter the climate. So why not do some gustatory exploring this winter, courtesy of a hot bowl of pleasure?
Café Colline
France: Soupe à l’Oignon
We can all agree: French onion soup isn’t really about the onions. In this case, they are caramelized and stewed to the point of leaving little but a darkly sweet flavor. But this tureen is really all about the bread and cheese. At Café Colline and its sister restaurant, Parc de Ville in Mosaic District, the crunchy crouton is thickly coated in gooey, nutty Gruyère. 4536 Lee Hwy., Arlington
Plaka Grill
Greece: Avgolemono
Your mother probably advised that you eat chicken soup to recover from a cold. That likely meant Campbell’s. But if you were blessed to be Greek, the potage in question was avgolemono, like the one chef-owner Peter Drosos makes at Plaka Grill. The veggie-speckled broth gets its rich texture from eggs and its tangy flavor from lemons, making the soup as vibrant as it is creamy. 1216 W. Broad St., Falls Church; 110 Lawyers Rd. NW, Vienna
Sorak Garden
Korea: Tteok Mandu Guk
China isn’t the only East Asian country with a killer dumpling soup. Though this Korean classic isn’t as iconic in the United States, it deserves to be, thanks to its combination of beefy broth, chewy rice cakes, cellophane noodles, and mandu, or thin-skinned, meaty dumplings, like at Sorak Garden. Vegetables on the side ensure that the mostly white soup includes some nutritional advantages. 4308 Backlick Rd., Annandale
Cerrito’s Pupuseria
El Salvador: Sopa de Gallina
Man cannot live on soup alone, and this satisfying meal, which translates as “hen soup,” might just make you forget the cheesy pupusas that give Cerrito’s Pupuseria, a popular lunch spot, its name. The bolstering broth is bright with seasonal veggies and cilantro, but ultimately, the centerpiece of the meal is the grilled chicken with puffy Salvadoran tortillas on the side. 43137 John Mosby Hwy., Chantilly
Fettoosh
Morocco: Harira
We hate a thin tomato soup. And that’s why we’re simply mad for the North African version at Fettoosh. The full-bodied broth here coats the bowl and the bread that comes with it. But don’t expect a one-note dish. Chickpeas and lentils provide flavor as well as texture, alongside slippery vermicelli. But it’s a collection of aromatic spices that makes this blend a winner. 5100 Wilson Blvd., Arlington
Aburi Gardens International Restaurant
Nigeria: Peanut Butter Soup
Velvety, nutty, and yes, meaty, there’s nothing quite like West African peanut butter soup. At the cheerful Aburi Gardens International Restaurant, there’s more than one way to enjoy it. We recommend getting it with the fufu, a doughy blob of cassava, reposing in the middle of the bowl. From there, it’s up to you to choose what meat to add. In our opinion, the correct answer is tender goat. 14830 Build America Dr., Woodbridge
Russia House
Eastern European: Borscht
The flavors of borscht can be as diverse as the largest country in the world (by land, if not population) from which this restaurant gets its name. Russia House’s Ukrainian-descended version is viscous, vegetal, and centered around a small-but-mighty spoonful of chilled sour cream. The base of Russia House’s soup is pickled beets, but the rest of its character may change seasonally based on the fresh veggies that add their unique personalities. 724 Pine St., Herndon
Riceberry Market
Thailand: Tom Kha
Representing coconut-milk soups across Asia, this tangy, creamy concoction is a must-have at any Thai restaurant. Why get it at Riceberry Market? The place is one of our new favorite Thai eateries, due in part to its low prices (the tom kha is $5 with chicken and $7 with shrimp), but also out-of-the-box pairings like sweet basil Lay’s chips. The galangal, or blue ginger, in the soup has just the right aromatic burn. 22034 Shaw Rd., Ste. 114, Sterling
Lezzet
Turkey: Red Lentil Soup
Does lentil soup sound boring to you? You haven’t had chef-owner Serkan Gozubuyuk’s version at Lezzet. The hearty broth is rife with garlic, yes, but that’s just the beginning. What elevates this bowl beyond mere comfort is a liberal dose of peppermint. It stirs the palate to taste every bite more intensely. The house-baked bread that comes with the meal doesn’t hurt, either. 13850 Braddock Rd. East, Centreville; 262 Cedar Ln., Vienna
Bayou Bakery
U.S.: Gumbo
One of the good ol’ US of A’s most idiosyncratic dishes takes its name from a West African word for okra. That should tell you volumes about the soup, which traces its heritage to food traditions from a world of Louisiana settlers. We like the version here, which combines smoky pork sausage and chicken in a deep, dark roux-based broth. 1515 N. Courthouse Rd., Arlington
Feature image courtesy Cafe Colline
This story originally appeared in our January issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to our monthly magazine.
