Many best lists you’ll see this season will be ranked. This one, however, is meant to celebrate the diversity of my 10 favorite restaurants of 2023. Whatever your mood, from clockwork-like fine dining to a warming bowl of noodle soup, you’ll find something here to whet your appetite.
If you loved The Menu but want to live
Alias
This speakeasy-style restaurant has only one seating a night and a five-course menu of locavore delights that are plated and served with near-military precision. Unsurprisingly, there’s no cheeseburger, but diners are arguably even more satisfied by plates like dry-aged duck breast with pomegranate and hazelnuts. 7150 Farm Station Rd., Warrenton
If you’re seeking heat
Chili Wok
The dominant color inside this mostly takeout restaurant is red, due to plates filled with chiles. Lots of them. That’s because the former China Village space has been reincarnated as one of the most satisfying Szechuan restaurants in the region. The dry-fried cauliflower is as tingly with Szechuan peppercorn as it is spicy, perfect for diners who love a meal that hurts so good. 335 Maple Ave. E., Vienna
If your kiddos are as sophisticated as you are
Ellie Bird
This family-run restaurant is kid-friendly with dishes like naan pizza and buttery pasta, but I like it because it brings childlike whimsy to its grown-up menu, too. Just order a slime-green Kids’ Choice Awards cocktail and see. Whether it’s pho-spiced French onion soup or fancy tater tots, the big flavors here make dining out fun. 125 Founders Ave., Falls Church
If your favorite Korean barbecue spot seems too casual for the occasion
Ingle
An appreciation for flesh pervades this upscale spot from the moment diners enter, and see what I described in my review as “a cow’s ribcage hanging in a glamorously lit place of honor, something of an altar for a meaty religious rite.” The high-quality products are best enjoyed by ordering prix fixe, but the high-end meats are now available to take home, too. 8369 Leesburg Pk., Ste. A, Vienna
If you want to try my single favorite mouthful of the year
Kirby Club
The kebabs are just swell here, but I would argue that the Picnic Platters are the way to go. In my review, I said that the chicken and now-discontinued beef rib, “reminds diners that we have indeed evolved to eat meat and that it can taste best when it’s torn from the bone.” So dance in your seat to the Habibi Funk music and grab some dips, aromatic rice, and marinated chicken that will rock your world. 2911 District Ave., Fairfax
If you believe some of the best food in the region can come out of a truck
Lechonera DMV
Yes, you’ll have to sit in your car or at a folding table. Get over it. Chefs Richard Torres and Mario Ernesto Corona Ruiz are some of the best working in NoVA right now. It’s evidenced in the 72-hour process that results in their crispy-skinned Puerto Rican-style lechon, but I was just as impressed with their sides and desserts, especially the elegant, panna cotta–like tembleque. Occoquan Commuter Parking Lot: 1325 Old Bridge Rd., Woodbridge
If you want to feed every sense in one meal
Nue
Located in Founder’s Row, the same mall as Ellie Bird, this modern Vietnamese gem gets a little less attention, but deserves at least as much. Just look at the main dining room, based on the paintings of restaurateur Tuyet Nhi Le’s great granduncle, and the plates of food like al dente pappardelle that are modeled on her mother’s Vietnamese beef stew recipe. It’s art all around. 944 W. Broad St., Falls Church
If you’ve always loved Padaek, you’ll really love
Padaek
Yep, chef Seng Luangrath has opened another location of the restaurant that made her name, but don’t expect a Xerox copy. This time, her Laotian dishes like crackly rice salad nam khao are enhanced with the presence of food she learned to make in Thailand, as well as the expertly prepared Burmese specialties of her chef de cuisine, Nyi Nyi Myint. 2931 S. Glebe Rd., Arlington
If your noodle soup could use an upgrade
Pho Towda
At first glance, this Vietnamese restaurant serves just the basics. But the banh mi sandwiches are available on black charcoal bread and are filled perhaps twice as much as your average version. The pho? The broth is hot, aromatic, and satisfying, doubly so because it’s available served in a hot stone bowl. The house signature soup is luxe with handmade noodles, New York strip, short rib, and jiggly bone marrow. 12152 Fairfax Towne Ctr., Fairfax
If you’re not going to make it to Kathmandu this year
Roadhouse Momo & Grill
I travel as much as I can, but I never had a strong desire to visit Nepal until I ate at this elegant Ashburn restaurant. The menu of spicy dumplings, enviably grilled meats, and fun street food gave me a new outlook on a cuisine that I thought I knew relatively well. I already have other destinations booked this year, but until I make it to the Himalayas, I’ll be returning here for many a taste. 44050 Ashburn Shopping Plz., Ste. 151, Ashburn
Feature image of Ellie Bird by Shannon Ayres
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