A stay in one of the five towns that make up the Haywood County, North Carolina, region puts the Great Smoky Mountains and Blue Ridge Parkway at your doorstep.
Driving distance: 6 hours, 30 minutes
STAY HERE: Maggie Valley, Waynesville, Lake Junaluska, Canton, and Clyde each have a unique character, though all are linked by the sheer beauty of the Smokies. Each of them also offers a smattering of affordable and one-of-a-kind cabins and cottages to rent—the ideal way to do a Haywood County trip. Some are kitschy and eclectic, others are modern and sleek, but all give you the chance to witness nature in its full brilliance, with mountain vistas and the occasional wild-animal sighting. Read the fine print closely, as some require four-wheel drive to access steep climbs or can be relatively secluded. Consider Keaton Cottage in Maggie Valley. It sleeps nine and is on a well-maintained paved road; there’s a “kid-friendly” bonus room with a Nintendo NES Mini. We’re dreaming of sipping our morning coffee on the patio, with its charming rocking chairs and gorgeous views of the fog nestling in the peaks and valleys. (It’s also near Cataloochee Ski Resort, among other attractions.) Or book the Modern Farmhouse Cottage, walkable to downtown Waynesville’s eateries and shops. This contemporary gem sleeps six and has a private yard and patio with a grill and cornhole, as well as board and card games for indoor fun. Keaton Cottage from $135 per night; Modern Farmhouse Cottage from $119 per night
Day 1
MORNING: If you haven’t fully stocked your kitchen yet, visit one of the local farmers markets, such as Haywood’s Historic in Waynesville. It reopens in the spring and peddles everything you need for a cabin feast—local produce, meats, fish, eggs, preserves, and artisan wares for gifting. U-picks are also popular in the region: The Ten-Acre Garden in Canton, which sells to Haywood’s and has asparagus and green onions in April, strawberries and kale in May, and wood-fired pizzas on Saturday afternoons. Pack a picnic from your findings or grab BLTs from family-run grocery and cafe Teague’s in Maggie Valley, then make your way to Cataloochee Valley for the rest of the day. The unspoiled region is steeped in history, with some schools, churches, barns, and homesteads from the late 1800s and early 1900s still standing in various states of preservation. Experience them on foot via various hikes, such as the 8-mile Little Cataloochee Church trail. (It’s best for a day excursion; on the roughly five-hour trek, you’ll tour the church’s interior and peek at blooming wildflowers—rhododendrons and cut-leaved toothwort—in April.) And if you’d prefer to see it all on horseback, the Cataloochee Guest Ranch, a historic lodge whose accommodations are currently under renovation, offers full- and half-day rides by reservation only.
AFTERNOON: Enjoy your picnic by a cool stream and take in the natural scenery around you: There are plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, though keep your distance to preserve their peace—and yours. You might encounter white-tailed deer, wild turkeys, birds, black bears (an estimated 1,500 inhabit the Smokies, according to the National Park Service), and, most importantly, elk. They were reintroduced in 2001 after disappearing in the late 1700s due to over-hunting and are best spotted at dawn or dusk.
EVENING: Keep it casual and let someone else do the cooking: Boojum Brewing Co. in Waynesville has racked up various accolades, has a heated patio, 16 beers on tap (and wine on offer), and a menu of hearty grub. There’s no kids’ menu, but options such as fish and chips make it easy to please picky eaters.
Day 2
MORNING: After sipping coffee and savoring seasonal scones at Third Bay Filling Station, head due north from Waynesville on the Blue Ridge Parkway. (Again, make sure you’ve packed a picnic and snacks for nibbling on the way.) While the road spans 469 miles, the 46-mile stretch through Haywood County is particularly scenic. You could easily spend all day hopping in and out of the car to snap photos at scenic overlooks, hike to waterfalls, and gawk at the awe-inspiring surroundings. (And if you don’t want to drive, the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad is an alternate—equally scenic and perhaps more relaxing for the driver—excursion.) Among the many points of interest are Devil’s Courthouse: From the top (a 20-minute hike), you can see into South Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee. A look at its rock formation might give you a hint at its name, which also could have stemmed from Cherokee legend. And, at 6,000-plus feet, the Richland Balsam Overlook is the highest peak on the parkway; the 1.5-mile-loop trail takes you through a spruce-fir forest where blackberry and elderberry grow in places where the trees have been damaged by wind.
AFTERNOON: The Sunburst Swimming Hole off Highway 215 in Canton (below Cold Mountain) is a refreshing late-afternoon activity, and visiting later in the day will help you avoid the crowds. There are two swimming areas; the water originates from the surrounding mountains, so it’s cold and fresh.
EVENING: Barbecue on your deck, watch the sunset, and play board games before turning in. Sure, that might fly if the young ones are out of steam. But if they’re not, the Smoky Mountain Sk8way & Fun Zone in Waynesville will ensure a good night’s sleep—a night here could include retro indoor roller-skating and an 18-hole mini putt.
Day 3
MORNING: Do some souvenir shopping before scooting out of the area. Waynesville’s walkable downtown has artisan soaps and candles from Green Orchid Soap Co. and a 50,000-tome-strong used bookstore by way of Wall Street Books. Or simply go to nearby Winchester Creek Farm to shop Granny’s House’s products made of alpaca fiber (throws and mittens), bath salts, and potpourri while the kids interact with Sweethot, a dark-brown alpaca; Raven, a mini-horse; and other petite animals on the 20-acre property. A 45-minute tour provides an inside look at how the farm operates—and its four-legged friends.
AFTERNOON: Hit a few vineyards on the way back to Virginia. Depending on your route, you just might be able to squeeze in a visit to the Biltmore in Asheville (reservations are required), which does double duty with a property tour and a free tasting in its winery.
This story originally ran in our March issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to our monthly magazine.