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Best Restaurants 2021: Magnolias at the Mill

Keeping things local at this historic Purcellville restaurant just makes sense.

Magnolias at the MIll
Magnolias at the Mill (Photo by Alice Levitt)

Magnolias at the Mill 
Purcellville / American / $$$$ 

Shiloh Farm, Endless Summer Harvest, Walter’s Farm: They’re all in Purcellville, and they all supply Magnolias at the Mill. In a region where “local” can often mean food harvested in Pennsylvania or Southern Virginia, this is an eatery that feeds its diners with ingredients from its immediate community.

OK, maybe the bison in the burger doesn’t come from P’ville, but you’ll excuse the exception when you take a bite of the juicy, grill-marked patty. It’s topped with housemade bacon rubbed with spices that approximate a Mexican mole, along with truffle cheese, local honey, and red-pepper aioli. A little busy? In theory, but in practice, the combination of flavors merely invites another bite.

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But keeping things local here just makes sense—after all, when the building that houses Magnolias was built in 1905, it was the only way to eat. Think of a meal here as a bite of the past.

See this: Ask for a seat in the main dining room, which still has pulleys and wheels in place from the mill that it once housed. Worship the sun more than antiques? Hit the patio instead.

Eat this: Fried green tomatoes, bison burger, butterscotch bread pudding

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Service: At their best, the young staff is fun and ready with a joke, but on busy nights, they might be overwhelmed.

When to dine here: A taste of history is just as important as a savory burger.

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Feature image by Alice Levitt

This post originally appeared in our November 2021 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.

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