Photography by Stefanie Gans

Little Saigon

“It’s like eating cake,” I say. Although maybe that’s not the right analogy. The noodles in pho ap chao do bien are fried into compact triangle-shaped portions. There’s no fighting to get the noodle in the mouth. It’s there, already compressed for ease and crunch. Do I miss vacuuming the noodles into my mouth? Yes. Do I want to swipe this fried noodle package into the accompanying brown gravy? Yes. Many times.

▶ Vietnamese; Order: Pho ap chao do bien
Little Saigon, 6218 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church

(January 2015)