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Global-ish: Beef brain taco at Jarochita #2

Ann Hsu Kaufman finds NoVA’s worldly bites for $12 & under.

By Editorial May 7, 2015 at 7:23 am

(From top left) From Jarochita #2: al pastor; garnishes of cilantro, spicy tomato and pickled chile salsa, onions and sliced radishes; lengua cabeza, sesos and al pastor tacos / Photo by Ann Hsu Kaufamn
From Jarochita #2: (from top left) al pastor; garnishes; lengua, cabeza, sesos and al pastor tacos / Photo by Ann Hsu Kaufamn

Finding worldly bites for $12 & under.

By Ann Hsu Kaufman 

Beef brains, when cooked right, are creamy, like soft custard. I couldn’t have told you this before I visited Jarochita #2, a no-frills Mexican joint in Arlington (the original Jarochita is in Manassas).

The sesos taco ($2.95) is simply that—slow-cooked beef brains, pale white and curd-like, wrapped in a double layer of homemade corn tortillas. If you can wrap your head (pun intended) around the idea of eating a brain taco, you’re in for a treat. The brain, while mild and slightly gelatinous, readily takes on the flavor of the garnishes: a heaping serving of cilantro, spicy tomato and pickled chile salsa, onions and sliced radishes.

Jarochita #2 / Photo by Ann Hsu Kaufman
Jarochita #2 / Photo by Ann Hsu Kaufman

But sesos shouldn’t be the only reason to visit Jarochita #2. Fifteen different kinds of tacos are listed on the menu and the other exotic offerings include cabeza (head), buche (pork stomach), tripa (tripe), lengua (beef tongue) and cueritos (pigskins).

While I haven’t tried them all, the lengua, slow cooked and chunky, is hearty and mildly spiced, and the cabeza is satisfyingly tender, albeit stringier, akin to a slow-cooked beef stew.

For a more conventional route, don’t miss the al pastor (Mexican-style pork; $2.50). Jarochita #2 marinates the al pastor in pineapple and chiles and then, true to street-food style, spit-roasts it on a giant turning vertical skewer (similar to doner kebab or shawarma). Chunks of pineapple cascade off the spit as the pork is shaved to order, and the result is a pile of crisp, juicy pork melded with caramelized pineapple. It is a truly magical bite. / Jarochita #2, 85 N. Glebe Road, Arlington; 703-528-2789

MORE | Global-ish
Pupusa, enchilada, guarache lengua and horchata at Lu’s Restaurant
Oxtail stew and Jamaican curry chicken at Caribbean Corner
Chicken kabob at Food Corner Kabob House
Lomo saltado at Bakery, Bread & Grill 

Curry puffs at Pilin Thai

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