Visiting Jordan is on my list of musts, but I haven’t been yet. Nor was I born in 1975, when Shawerma Reem began serving its pita sandwiches in Amman.
All this is a caveat that I will never know what Middle Eastern fast food tasted like 51 years ago. What I can tell you is that the first American link in the chain — which also has locations in Saudi Arabia — is worth a visit.
On a recent Sunday, part of the excitement was in the mild chaos of the dining room and partially open kitchen. The menu had been expanded from two items just that day and the restaurant was full. Clearly, word has gotten around.
Service is friendly and quick, though the team initially forgot the fries that came with my combo meals. I selected Palestine cola and guava juice from the refrigerator next to the takeout counter and brought my edible riches to an outdoor table. At about $15 apiece, the combos are an excellent deal.
The skin-on fries are battered and lightly seasoned, with a faded brick hue that augurs their robust flavor and crisp jackets. And you get plenty of them. Next time I visit with a companion, I’ll get one combo so we can share the fries and each get a skinny rolled sandwich.
The two sandwich options, beef and chicken, are more different from each other than one might guess. The mammalian meat is paired with fresh onions, tomatoes, and tahini for an earthy sesame vibe.
I preferred the chicken, which has a stronger whiff of the spices in which it was marinated. The tender protein is combined with tangy toum (creamy garlic sauce), as well as pickled cucumbers. Wrapped in a grill-crisped pita, it looks like a small meal, but is more filling than it appears.
I was contemplating going back for another, but satiation won out over the desire to again taste the elegant simplicity of the sandwich that has won generations of fans. Now, I’m one of them. I’ll be back for many a chicken wrap, and one day I’ll visit Shawerma Reem in Amman. 8632 Rte. 29, Fairfax
