Halva. Shakshuka. Labneh. They’re words that conjure a particularly delicious part of the world. I’m not going to get into culinary geopolitics, but it’s fair to say that they’re all eaten in Israel. That’s a country that’s not well-represented on NoVA restaurant tables. That’s why it’s exciting that Tatte Bakery & Cafe opened in Clarendon last fall.
I rarely write about out-of-town chains. But like the Jolibees of the world, I think Tatte is an important addition to the NoVA food scene, even though it descends from Boston. That’s because I stuffed my face with the best damn shakshuka in our region there, all while surrounded in tempting pastries that are just as Israeli-inflected, thanks to Israeli-American founder Tzurit Or.
The counter service spot fills up at lunchtime with local office workers of every stripe. They’re there for a quick honey-halva lattes or a full meal like a lamb kebab plate with baba ghanoush, chickpea purée, pickled red cabbage, and toasted za’atar pita. Basically, the charming bakery is our region’s entrée into the world of modern Israeli food.
As for that shakshuka, the menu boasts three different versions. The one pictured above is home to three football-shaped lamb meatballs, along with the traditional poached eggs. Peppadews bestow a tart heat to the dish, along with the spicy labneh. But the heart of the dish is the tomato-and-bell-pepper sauce. The earthy, cumin-spiced nectar is best scooped up with the lightly toasted challah on the side. At first glance, I thought there was too much bread, but it turns out there is never enough of this stuff, whether to drain the pan of every last bit of goodness, or eat on its own.
Did I have room for dessert? Absolutely not. Did I bring home a little something for later? For sure. But there will be more where that came from for me.
2805 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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