Alexandria
Sweet Fire Donna’s
For: barbecue for all the zip codes
510 John Carlyle St., Alexandria
“They should be too much,” says my barbecue-obsessed friend about the allure of Kansas City burnt ends. The little nubs absorb too much smoke, too much heat. It’s the edible example of “there’s never too much of a good thing.” The reward: ultra smoky, chewy bits of blackened brisket that are the grill’s ultimate gift. But there’s more zip codes to explore at Sweet Fire Donna’s, the barbecue restaurant by Mike Anderson, known for the late Mango Mike’s and newer Pork Barrel BBQ. Carolina-style chopped pulled pork pops with vinegar and bits of heat. Texas sausage links are subdued and the brisket is dry. Sides include “Mammy’s collard greens,” (named after Anderson’s mother in law; Donna is his wife), which remain snappy, not boiled-to-limp. The fiery mac and cheese doesn’t deserve its adjective, but the “cool cucumber salad” brings unexpected heat and is utterly refreshing. -Stefanie Gans
(July 2014)
