You won’t find Ned at Ned’s New England Deck, a recent seafood-focused Fairfax arrival. That’s because “he’s an acronym of the restaurant’s name,” says co-owner Steve Forbes. What you will find is terrific food and hospitality at this tribute to the casual fare Forbes and his partner Anthony Gallotto grew up eating and cooking on Boston’s North Shore. Their showcase is a spruce Fairfax cottage that replicates the friendly informality of a New England seafood shack with its picnic tables and outdoor seating.
Diners enter a charming marine blue-and-white dining space to order at the counter. Once seated — either inside the cottage on the sunny porch overlooking Fairfax Boulevard or at picnic tables in the dog-friendly, covered street-side patio — their food is brought to the table. It’s served in disposable containers, just like on the New England shore.
Lobster rolls are virtually synonymous with casual New England fare. Ned’s version is a champ. Mouth-filling, meaty chunks of the crustacean, lightly dressed with mayo, fill a large, butter-toasted, brioche-like roll. The lobsters are shipped from Portland, Maine, year-round. Each order has meat from a pound-and-a-quarter lobster, and there’s an option to add even more. A local bakery has recreated their hometown’s loaf-like, springy, flaky bread specialty. The accompanying fries or onion strings are thin, crispy, and addictive.
The owners are equally proud of a lesser-known regional specialty, their beef Super Sammy. This behemoth sandwich layers razor-thin slices of succulent cooked beef with melted cheese, a New England A.1.-style barbecue sauce, and mayonnaise. As Forbes rightfully claims, it comes together as an “umami experience.” The sandwich can also be ordered with chicken or vegetables, instead of beef.
Forbes can be just as proud of the delicious baked beans and the crisp, tangy cold slaw that can be ordered as sides. Steamer clams are another menu highlight. It’s a New England specialty seldom found in NoVA. Forbes compares them to our area’s soft-shell crabs and is especially proud that he can source the requisite little-neck or middle-neck bivalves. Mildly briny, ready to be dipped in butter, a generous serving of the simply steamed crustaceans quickly disappears.
New England seafood fans will find delicious versions of regional treats, such as creamy clam chowder (with the “secret” ingredient of wine), lobster bisque, and lobster-burnished eggs Benedict at brunch. Fridays herald a fried fish and chip special. Beers – including Narragansett Lager, an iconic Rhode Island brew – along with cider, wine, and cocktails are available. Dessert is a Maine specialty, whoopee pie. 10655 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax
Feature image courtesy Ned’s New England Deck
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