It’s not news that Thai food can be great for vegetarians. Coconut milk brings richness to dishes that will even please vegans. In fact, I’ve had more than one strict vegetarian in my life who would eat little outside the home that didn’t descend from the former Siam.
More often than not, this resulted in eating curries and stir fries from Southern Thailand. I’ve always preferred Northern Thai. My favorite dish from the region is khao soi, a spicy broth that drenches egg noodles in coconut milk and a turmeric-yellow curry paste. Usually, a chicken leg is at the center of the bowl, along with a tower of crispy fried noodles. Until a recent visit to Esaan Northeastern Thai Cuisine in McLean, it never occurred to me that this was a dish I could share with my vegetarian friends. But on the eight-item vegetarian menu, it stared me right in the face: khao soi tofu.
At Esaan, the chicken is replaced with four extra-large cubes of fried tofu, resulting in a very different texture from the tender stewed chicken, but one just as engaging to eat. Breaking apart the chunks is a challenge, owing to their crispy, chewy jacket. That gives way to a velvety mush of a middle, which mixes with the gingery curry. The fettuccine-like noodles twist their way around shaved raw onion and funky pickled mustard greens. A squeeze of lime brings out the aromatic curry’s assets, though next time I’ll ask for it spicier. Each bite is unique, a bit of tofu here, a stalk of mustard green there.
Finally, I’ve found a way to share my favorite dish with the vegetarians in my life.
1307 Old Chain Bridge Rd., McLean
Feature image by Alice Levitt
For more reviews, subscribe to our twice-weekly Food newsletter.
