When I talked to him last December in advance of Preservation Biscuit Company opening its doors in Falls Church, chef Jonathan Coombs told me, “I look at biscuits almost the same way I look at tacos–they’re open to your imagination as far as what you put inside of them or what you put on top of them. A steak is a steak is a steak, a biscuit is a multitude of possibilities.” It was finally time to taste the possibilities.
Preservation Biscuit has tables both inside and out, but most of the business seemed to be takeout, much of it in bulk. It’s a shame that more customers aren’t taking advantage of the Southern hospitality with which I was greeted. The staffer manning the counter gamely discussed the relative merits of several biscuits with me before I settled on her recommendation of the PBC, just one of which she described in effusive detail.
The signature biscuit is centered around crispy, juicy chicken tenders that deserve to be a meal on their own. Luckily, they are available solo, albeit listed as a side dish and served with homemade sausage gravy. The biscuit itself has just the right coverage of exterior crunch, though the center is more fluffy than flaky. That’s not my preference, but it’s still a mighty fine biscuit. The two layers of bread are filled not just with chicken, but also candied bacon (unfortunately, this could have used more time in the pan), napa cabbage, hot honey, and most importantly, a layer of gooey pimento cheese made with smoked Gouda.
Despite the bounty of delectable ingredients piled inside the biscuit, I found myself craving more. Fortunately, there are two dessert biscuits from which to choose. The seasonal Apple of My Eye has recently become You’re a Peach, and I couldn’t resist. I was right to let my id take over. The warm peaches are sweetened and softened just enough to capture the flavors of a country peach cobbler. A lofty crown of whipped cream completes the picture. The lesson here: When at Preservation Biscuit Company, don’t try to eat just one. 102 E. Fairfax St., Falls Church
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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