In November, a cease-fire was declared in the decades-long Nagorno-Karabakh conflict, putting Azerbaijan in a rare spotlight. I’m not here to comment on international politics, just to say that most people are just regular, good-hearted folk, wherever they come from. And they all have delicious traditions to share. What better time to taste Azerbaijani fare? We’re lucky to have Baku Delicious in Fairfax to do just that.
The three-year-old market and bakery stocks practically anything a Central Asian heart could desire, from smoked Georgian string cheese to rose jam to dolmas. The last of those are wrapped not just in grape leaves, but also whole peppers and eggplants in the small but well-packed case of savory prepared foods. The desserts? They’re made by Gunel Mammadkhanova, a Baku native pastry chef and Fiola alum.
Owner Sevda Tahirli kindly explains her offerings one-by-one for anyone new to her native cuisine. As soon as she pointed out the lamb stew, though, I knew I had no choice but to try it. Tahirli warmed it up and brought it to me at a table at the front of the market. The comforting Azerbaijani meal features fall-apart-tender morsels of fatty lamb along with silky chestnuts and sweet-and-sour plums served over aromatic rice. I paired mine with my choice among the several flavors of pirozhki, a fluffy football-shaped bun filled with crumbly cheese. From the drink case, I skipped my beloved tarragon soda in favor of a bottle with pine cones on its label, which I later learned is a version of Baikal, the former Soviet riposte to Coca Cola.
Before leaving with my string cheese, I grabbed a piece of Mammadkhanova’s Azerbaijani-style baklava. My diamond-shaped, almond-topped slice had a thicker crust than the flaky phyllo associated with other styles of baklava. It is also less sweet, perfect for pairing with a cup of sugared tea. With a case filled with Napoleons and honey cakes waiting, I have more delectable work ahead to learn everything I can about Azerbaijani flavor. // 3900 Pickett Rd., Fairfax
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