There are just a few people in the TV-lined dining room at Luzmary in Falls Church, but the parking lot is almost full. The stock market is tanking, so maybe some comfort is in order for the customers who flit in and out of the separate takeout entrance. If that’s the case, there are few options better for both mental health and wallet than a lunch of salteñas.
Haven’t tried salteñas? You’re in for a discovery that may change how you eat on days when you need a little edible therapy. If an empanada and a soup dumpling magically synthesized, it would be something like the Bolivian pie. At Luzmary, owned by Marisol Gonzales, there are two varieties of salteñas. Fortunately, two add up to a perfect amount for a light meal that costs a very comfortable $5.50.
Luzmary’s salteñas look like extra chubby empanadas, but their yellow-hued dough is sturdy enough to contain a liquidy sauce that gushes out at first bite, or in my case, cut with the provided spoon. But it’s not just sweet sauce that spills out. Each pie contains a satisfying portion of either beef or chicken, both cut into tender chunks. Both varieties also include hard-boiled egg slices, potatoes, peas and olives. The last of these are a bit jarring at first, but help to break up the slightly overly sweet sauce. The jalapeño relish on the side, a simplified version of a Bolivian condiment known as llajua, also performs this task admirably, adding just enough heat to overpower the sugar.
On days that I feel the need to eat heartily for little more than pocket change, I know that Luzmary is there with my best interests at heart. // 7151 Lee Hwy., Falls Church
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