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Best Restaurants 2020: Nostos

See why restaurants are just another wing of show business at this Vienna Greek eatery.

Nostos
Nostos takes Greek food beyond basics. (Photo by Rey Lopez)

Nostos

Vienna / Greek / $$$

Restaurants are an oft-ignored wing of show business. From stellar service to dishes that wow even before you take a bite, there’s no arguing that dining out is entertainment. And it’s rarely as transfixing as it is at Nostos.

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It’s possible to have more than one course prepared at your table for a show that you can bite into. Start with the saganaki, a pan of funky kefalograviera cheese that’s flamed tableside as the server shouts, “Opa!” See his acumen with a knife when he fillets a whole branzino for you. It’s most satisfying when it’s simply covered with squeezed lemon. Maybe it’s because the collection of compelling mezedes is so light, but you’re sure to leave feeling inflated.

See This: White walls and rugged bricks conjure Hellenic elegance.

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Eat This: Saganaki, lavraki (whole branzino), galaktoboureko

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When to Visit: An evening that calls for a gorgeous meal that doesn’t leave you too full for romance


This post originally appeared in our November 2020 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.

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