The Ashby Inn & Restaurant
Paris / Modern American / $$$$*
The gift from the kitchen before the meal starts is a single plum. “Did you see the tree by the parking lot?” asks your server. Order the duck breast, and you’ll find more of the homegrown fruit in a balsamic-emboldened sauce that lights up not only the crisp bird, but also shattered duck-fat potatoes and purslane, the latter wildcrafted from around the property.
This is country living at its finest, where your meal starts with a Parker House roll and a duck-fat bun topped with a fresh tomato and cheese. Your server knows the menu like the back of her hand and can answer every question about sourcing and preparation you throw her way. Other staffers will refill your water glass before you even realize you’re ready for more.
We live in complicated times. Consider The Ashby Inn your escape to an era of simplicity and delicious comfort.
See This: An old-fashioned dining room will make you feel like you’re really dining in a country inn, but eat outside for the best view of the rolling hills of a nearby farm. Chances are you’ll hear the Black Angus cattle mooing.
Eat This: Wild mushroom strudel, smoked Rohan duck breast, blood orange panna cotta
When to Visit: You have a special occasion worthy of a drive to rural Paris.
This post originally appeared in our November 2020 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.
