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  • Tea-Totaling? Get your zero-proof drinks at UniTea Café in Leesburg
Unitea Cafe
  • Food & Drink

Tea-Totaling? Get your zero-proof drinks at UniTea Café in Leesburg

Aniceto “JR” Rena returns home to Leesburg with international mixology cred and a taste for quirky combos.

By Alice Levitt October 14, 2021 at 7:00 am

Calamansi, honey, Moroccan mint. Lychee, elderflower, rosebuds. The menu reads like a cocktail list at an upscale, drinks-forward restaurant. And that’s exactly what Aniceto “JR” Rena wants you to think when you see his ingredient list, which doesn’t include a trace of alcohol.

UniTea Café may look like a homey boba shop in a circa-1865 building in downtown Leesburg. But its founder cut his teeth in the industry cooking for superstar chef José Andrés. Rena was seduced by creating cocktails in New York City at Cosme, known as much for its beverage program as its creative Mexican fare. That led to a stint at Pujol in Mexico City, widely recognized as one of the world’s best restaurants.

The Kimi Dat at UniTea Cafe
The Kimi Dat pairs watermelon and dragonfruit with chile salt. (Photo by Rey Lopez)

All this is to say, Leesburg is lucky that COVID brought Rena home. At UniTea, leaf lovers can focus on the traditional—from pu-erh to matcha—but the “family teas” and shakes, all named for Rena’s extended clan, are where guests can take advantage of his refined palate for fruits, teas, and unusual inclusions like chile salt, Rice Krispies, and mochi. For mocktail mavens, it’s time to unite over the best spirits-free drink list in NoVA.

Feature image by Rey Lopez

This story originally ran in our October issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to our monthly magazine.

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Contributing Food Critic/Editor

Alice Levitt has been writing for Northern Virginia Magazine since 2020. She began her restaurant critic journey at Seven Days in Vermont in 2007 before moving on to Houstonia Magazine in Texas. Her food, travel, and health innovation stories have appeared in Vox, EatingWell, Simply Recipes, Allrecipes, and many other national publications.

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